Archive for July 2011

Late Summer In Bloom

Despite our everyday fashionable black & whites, the nudes & pastels, the hot & fluo colors, I think we also need some real colors, some joy and fantasy in our summer wardrobe. It’s just another wonderful way to enjoy these late summer days.
So make it bright with prints, flowers, accessories and wonderful colors, no matter if you build a wardrobe of elegant dresses from Marc Jacobs, Givenchy and Mary Katrantzou (like those featured in Vogue USA, August issue), or you just put together some colorful juicy dresses (with a gipsy touch) from some local no name designers.

Late Bloomers – editorial  in Vogue USA, August issue / photographer – Steven Klein/ model – Raquel Zimmerman/ images via fashiongonerogue

Action Is Guilt – Method to Rourke

I’ve already talked about the art of Alex Mirutziu on Fashion Salad, I love his projects – exquisite performances with a fashion touch. I mean, have you ever thought about  wearing a suit that works as a punching bag (love the concept!), or putting yourself helpless in the middle of a boxing match? The theme of Mirutziu’s performance – “Action is Guilt – Method to Rourke” is a subtle dialog between some antagonistic  entities… passive/ aggressive, fragile/ tough, slim fit/ raw muscles, etc.

“In the materiality of action each gesture loses up its energy, and meaning; the dispersion of muscular functions, what is too obvious open up into series of faults, into a terrain of particles with their own void.
When action becomes problematic the focus is on what is not happening that is less happening; it becomes a sign of absence, punctuating moments of failed communication, mobilising silence, homelessness and exploitability.”

Alex Mirutziu is a Romanian artist, whose practice extends over a wide range of media and activities, including: writing, photography, media-critical video installations and performance as well as various critical and curatorial projects. His work endows social processes with ephemeral emergence as main constructs in an attempt to reconfigure the relation between information and form, psychophysical language and content, challenging origins and meaning. His most recent work implies a recuperation of the subject between structured death and migration of suffering.

Alex Mirutziu – Action Is Guilt/Method to Rourke

Performed with guest appearance of professional bodybuilder Paolo Iannettone
Costume: Alexandru Nicolae

Cast By Shadows

The Australian designer, now based in Reykjavik – Sruli Recht, is already famous for his particular fashion projects and his passion for the so-called “non-products”:

” ‘Non-Products’ – A specially made low run piece, either hand tooled or machine made, that would lose its context as a mass produced item, and is not viable to produce in large quantities. And/or An item that is in concept stage as a byproduct of the previous. ”

Sruli Recht definitely likes to experiment. Being equally interested in fashion and custom-tailoring, industrial design and illustration, he is, by all means, creative (till he reaches controversy). After the designer showed over the years some sensational projects like his Umbuster, the Bulletprouf HandKerchief etc., here he comes with some special items in his SS 2011 Collection – “Cast By Shadows”.

I’m talking about the limited-edition objects that he developed for the visually impaired – the white cane and the white glasses. The white larch cane is bleached in the sun, hand-carved and tipped with rubber. The eyeshade  frames are made of hand-carved cherry wood, while the lenses are hand-cut in Carrara marble. Both of them are limited edition- 5 pieces per each item.

Special indeed, I love projects like this. Because fashion should move further & go beyond.

images via dezeen.com

Simply “Clothing”

“Food, clothing, and shelter” are the essentials of life. Issey Miyake, one of the 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT directors has organized an exhibition that focuses upon “clothing” and some of the many essential articles produced by the Tohoku Region, Japan. The 21_21 Design Sight research centre is holding a six day celebration of Tohoku culture and craftsmanship (July 26- july 31), featuring Myiake’s own work, and some of the many essential articles produced by the Tohoku region.
Following the disaster that has struck the area, “Clothing” is an exhibition dedicated to traditional Japanese textile techniques, already famous on European catwalks. Much of them, as Myiake’s, Yamamoto’s , Kawakubo’s designs are  often derived from the  old traditions of the Tohoku region, commonly viewed as the creative heartland of Japan.

The Spirit of Tohoku“exhibition shows that “Clothing” goes beyond fashion, and it’s all about humanity facing a crisis, living in harmony with nature, putting creativity to use, making beautiful and powerful items for daily use.

Muneyoshi Yanagi once described the Tohoku region as, “a land of handmade work that continues to preserve a wealth of things only possible in Japan.” The knowledge of craftsmanship and techniques of traditional handmade crafts passed down and refined for generations, have paved the way for technologies that now support our society today…  This “spirit” is something we must cherish; and yet is also something from which we have detached ourselves in an era of excessive consumption. It lives on in the energy and rich history of craftsmanship of this region. It also may prove to be the spark of hope that will guide us all, going forward.

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The A-Men and Beyond

 

A-MEN is the Men’s scent and, after Angel, the second major success of the house of Thierry Mugler, being launched  in 1996. With or without Thierry, seems that Mugler’s advertising campaigns continue maestro’s vision on radical fashions. The fashion-able bodies once promoted by Alexander McQueen (remember the famous 1998 Dazed issue?), are now reloaded by Art Director Formichetti. As Aimee Mullins is still inspiring for everybody in the world, we are now invited to take a look at South Africa’s athlete & Paralympic hero Oscar Pistorius.

Oscar Pistorius – known as the “Blade Runner”, has been running with artificial legs since his childhood, thus making an inspirational career. The commercial features the athlete running with prosthetic limbs on the classic Mugler Angel background. Spectacular indeed! The A-Men Mugler campaign doesn’t promote only a scent, but rises a motivational theme, focusing on the body. The future of fashion is more and more about the fashion-able body and Nicola Formichetti develops the concept in various ways, from the Gaga look to Rico’s performance, from the cyborg inspired outfits to his Brothers of Arcadia. Especially with the A-Men Ad campaign, he did it fantastically once again.

 

Men S/S 2012

Sometimes I feel that the Men collections have something more to say than the Women’s. They look fresher, easier, more spectacular. Look at these backstage images – it’s photographer Sonny Vandevelde, peeping in to the backstage of Men Fashion shows in Milan and Paris.

I extracted some images below, from Damir Doma, Givenchy, Mugler, Calvin Klein, Kenzo, Dior etc. The outfits look much more “alive ” in these photo shots than watching them on the catwalk.

all images via sonnyphotos

Smaranda Almasan A/W 2011/2012

Smaranda Almasan is a Romanian fashion designer, living and working in Cluj, Transylvania. She’s lovely, talented and shy, but her designs are always sober (she loves working on cuts, structures and especially on black). I posted below some photos from Smaranda’s lookbook – Fall Winter 2011/2012 Collection.

*especially, I love her long skirts and the red outfit.