Archive for September 2011

A Particular Swan

The Giles Collection S/S 2012 is fabulous, with all those silver fabrics, sophisticated laser-cuts and funny sunglasses. The designer himself warns that it’s not another Black Swan collection, which is absolutely true. In fact, his collection is more linked with another family of swans, as Bjork’s controversial one. One more reason to fall in love with Giles Deacon’s work.

 

Art vs. Fashion

Jana Sterbak is a Canadian artist, known worldwide for her conceptual projects, especially for her works constructed from meat, as her Chair Apollinaire (1996) and her Vanitas: Flesh Dress for an Albino Anorectic (1987). Actually, it was Sterbak’s work that inspired Lady Gaga’s infamous flesh outfit at MTV Video Music Awards Gala last year.
However, Jana Sterbak has many other interesting works, worth to talk about. Yet, some of them are strangely connected  with the fashion world. I selected below some pictures from her projects: Sisyphus Sport (1997) and Remote Control (1989), and, of course, the Vanitas Flesh Dress. Basically, she shows out a bag, a cage and a dress. Always shifting perspective, she opts for an exploration in depth. And there’s a lot of irony, too.

How does he do it?

I strongly believe in the new generation of fashion designers that rock the world’s catwalks, refreshing the landscape, proposing different stories, avoiding the usually remakes. And Marios Schwab is one that we should keep an eye on. I mean, his designs are always intriguing, in terms of  concept and appearance. Remember his Fall 2009 3D collection? that was a great attempt, and he succeeded!

Marios Schwab studied fashion at Esmod Berlin , he took a MA at Saint Martins, and launched his own label in 2005.  Schwab won the prize for Best New Designer at the British Fashion Awards in 2006; in 2009 he was appointed Creative Director at Halston.

His recent collections have explored various themes, such as the historical costume, lingerie, rethinking the form of traditional dress, playing with tricky surfaces etc. Definitely, his fashion is always doubled with an intellectual investigation – all his collections are meticulously built, piece by piece. Schwab’s designs are sometimes “risky” and experimental, but still appealing and feminine. His design aesthetic successfully match the technological innovation with traditional craftsmanship.

Regarding Marios Schwab SS 2012 collection, there are beautiful patterns and smart cuts, a lot of transparent layers and unexpected style associations. Not to mention the gorgeous swimsuit – perfectly crisscrossed and cutout! It’s all so sharp and brilliant, I couldn’t help but write about it. I hope you’ll enjoy it, too.

images via vogue.com

The Kooples


The Kooples is a French label that literally dresses the fashionable couples. It’s their  original advertising campaign that caught my attention, first of all. The Kooples features real people living in couples (so simple & inspired). It’s all about:

“Elégance militaire, blousons flight revisités, gilets, robes de femmes-icônes, manteau “Crombie” façon collège britannique, et, bien sûr, le costard trois pièces parfait… Le couple, quoi. Masculin/Feminin, comme aurait dit Godard, légèrement androgyne, moderne en somme.”

The Story of Yuyi

This  short film, directed by famous photo- duo, Inez and Vinoodh, is featuring Gaga as mermaid Yüyi. Shot during the making of the official video  “You and I”, I think this mini- film is much better than the final, redundant version of it. And talking about second-skins… Note the spectacular skin of the mermaid- Formichetti’s signature styling.

If someone’s interested to learn more about the Yuyi, check out the Gagapedia

Just in case you need a second skin

I’m usually not so enthusiastic about the beige and nude tones on clothes. It’s not because I don’t like them, it’s just the simple fact that nowadays, they’re literally suffocating the fashion world. It’s like – “u don’t have any inspiration, u don’t know what color you should use for that? Just try some beige- it’s easy and it always works!” That’s why I’m not interested in it, because it lacks originality, because it’s already too much and I’m just sick of it. I’ve decided to not tolerate the nude as fashion statement only if it has some serious support, as it does in Margiela’s work.

What about the Calvin Klein Collection? The subtle, elegant, smartly designed pieces from their Spring/ Summer 2012 collection? Also here, the nude has a strong design background. Calvin Klein pioneered the concept of invisible underwear (remember the laser cut, seamless finishing?) – they’re quite revolutionary  at this point. Not to mention their recent Naked Glamour lingerie campaign, featuring Lara Stone + Patrick Demarchelier. Their clothing line is always focused on genuine design, clean cuts and a lot o wear-ability. Actually, this design concept is 100% American. But, in addition, the new Spring/Summer Calvin Klein Collection gives it a subtle romantic mood, just opportune to transform the outfits in perfectly marketable products. In Calvin Klein’s terms, the beige really makes sense – it’s about designing the basics, it’s about imaging the contemporary wardrobe  as a light extension of the  skin.

images via vogue.com

Joji Kojima

What can I say about Joji Kojima‘ s jewelry? They say it is macabre, or baroque, I don’t know… I think it’s just fabulous.

Born in California, Kojima studied graphic design at Tama Art University, working as an assistant for Yoshiko Creation Paris. Later, Kojima introduced his custom brand Hotel Gluttony. The label turned heads when Lady Gaga made a guest appearance on Music Japan wearing Yoshiko’s black umbrella headpiece entitled “B-612” (from the Le Petite Prince collection). Anyway, Joji Kojima’ work stands out through his alternative looks; his artful pieces are infused with poetry and irony, bearing a lot of fictional connections. I guess it’s all about dreaming and sharing some  fantastic stories.