Archive for May 2012

A Scanner Darkly

Remember the tricky make-up in Bernhard Willhelm’s Fall 2012 collection? The painted faces and comics inspiration? As the clothes are never enough, and fashion photography is not enough, fashion seems to be interested in some old school techniques as the collage or fashion illustration.  This editorial in the June issue of Dazed was inspired by the works of fashion illustrator René Gruau. Gruau’s influence on fashion imagery was overwhelming, but, to be fair, this kind of drawings look quite obsolete today. But not if you move them from the flat paper to the surface of the body, as they did for The Scanner Darkly editorial. The girls were literally transformed to look like rough drawings, with faces melting in the background.

A Scanner Darkly, the editorial Dazed & Confused, the June issue/ photographer: Daniel Jackson/  styling: Karen Langley/ make up artist: Yadim/ hair styling: Yannick D’Is/ models:  Ava Smith, Codie Young, and Madison Headrick/ images via fashiongonerogue.com.

Dressing Up the Therns

Remember the Thern costume in John Carter movie?

Costume designed by Mayes Rubeo.

Stitching Concrete

Stitching Concrete is a project developed by designer Florian Schmid. The objects displayed above are able to mix the furniture design with the textile techniques, in order to obtain unusual effect. I mean, it’s unusual to see concrete looking like textiles, or the outdoor furniture looking like a handmade garment. So, how did he do it?

These stools are made by folding fabric that’s impregnated with cement then drenching it in water. It consists of cement layered between fabric and a PVC backing. Once soaked it can be manipulated for a few hours before hardening. A wooden mould supports it while drying within 24 hours. Before that the edges have been stitched together with brightly coloured thread.

The Project plays with a visual delusion that actually cloth can not give the strength to sit on.

Discover more on florian-schmid.com

 

[Gloss]ary

I think it’s quite uneasy to find a proper way to talk about fashion (professionally speaking). Many scholars tend to theorize fashion converting it in intellectual stuff. On the other hand, notorious fashionistas around the world prefer to display fashion rather than talking about it. As the world of fashion is neither too serious, nor completely superficial, how should we approach it?

Danilo Venturi, the author of Luxury Hackers has a  particular take on fashion. He constantly plays with the fashion terminology and I’m sure he’s having fun dissecting, connecting or inventing words. The text becomes alive, juicy and ironic, as it should be. Recently, he put these terms together for some kind of fashion glossary. And, no kidding, it really makes sense. Check out:

[organ]ism

ani[male]

[skull]pture

re-pulsion

cruci[fiction]

apoca[lipstick]

vanish-ment

birthday twice a year

biverse: dual universe

Helmut Langue [et Parole]

Céline and sell-out

Pra[v]da

pre-tend

b[r]and on tour

fashion un-fair

leather goods [and leather bads]

[bitch]wear

Indian gothic

from Newton to new[tone]

lesbian men

men[swear]

brand [menage]ment

international [deep-art]ment

be-fore-casting

Lond-on and Lond-off

blondine and blond-out

fake-boobism and mini-skirtism

modern-ism and modern-wasm

stop and st-art

re-fuse

the ancient G[r]eeks

Renai[chance]

Louis Vuit[town]

to be cured [or curated]

[im]pressed forever

Chan[n]el n.5

authenti[city]

archi[textures]

to not for-get


Frocks For A Lifetime

Here’s an old photo showing an emblematic couple of the Viennese Secession – Austrian artist Gustav Klimt and Emilie Louise Floge, his life companion. Please note the originality of their outfits. Klimt is worldwide known for his artworks; Emilie was an Austrian fashion designer and businesswoman, promoting a niche style in clothing of the time. Making dresses was part of the Secessionist logic of blurring the boundaries between art and craft through the concept of Gesamtkunstwerk, or ‘universal artwork’. So, there’s no wonder Klimt and Emilie have worked together on various fashion pieces.

Influenced by the feminist movement and the concept of the “rational dress”, Emilie’s  particular dress styles looked quite out-of-their-time. At the turn of the 20th century in Vienna, a dress like this would be considered more experimental and marginal, comparing to the official fashions. That’s why these kind of dresses remained unpopular. More recently, Rick Owens or Nicolas Andreas Taralis also tried their hand at reviving the concept, but the amazing fact is that these frocks are still avant-garde today. Even 100 years after.