Archive for March 2013
The Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2013 Collection delivers, as we could expect, some of MMM’s classic motifs – the masculine tailoring inspiration, the deconstruction, the oversize outfits, the front/back interplay, the trompe l oeil effects etc., everything packed in a smart ready-to-wear formula. Maybe that’s not exactly my favorite Margiela creative manifesto, but I can’t ignore all those powerful details (the statement accessories, the brushstrokes on the clothes, the plexi heel boots).
As far as I’m concerned, to be honest, the concept of hairstyle embedded in the costume is the best part of this collection.
images source: fashionising.com
I recently came across Erwina Ziomkowska‘s artworks. For their visual power, for their fashion flavour, for their delicate absurdity, these pieces certainly deserve a closer look.
Erwina Ziomkowska is a Polish artist, who “produces minimal facilities and temporary installations. ”
Inclined for a minimalist way of acting, the artist opts for repetitive activities as grooving, puncturing, scratching, threading. At the end of the day, she reveals some beautiful and impossible objects: metallic underwear (dangerous inside), a pinned clutch bag, pinned shoes, etc. The extreme intensity of work (similar to irrationally-compulsive behaviours) contrasts the purified forms of the completed objects, picturing a sterile cool beauty.
“A crucial element for the understanding of the works presented is an omnipresent doubt, which appears here the whole time (but with a different intensity) with a gentle kind of tension underneath. This sense of uncertainty appears to drive the whole acting system, based on the principle of repetition, bringing to mind a ritual process of transition. Where the rhythm of multiplied actions organizes the change, thus activating a complex process of internal transformation.
As far as the ritual goes there is a sort of external manifestation easing the transformation appearance- the subject of time passing, taken simultaneously, is a component driving this process from the inside.”
images source: saatchionline.com
Definitely, the technique of 3D print is a hot topic. Some analysts anticipate the third industrial revolution. We already talked about rapid-prototyping on Fashion Salad, especially related to shoe design (designers such as Iris Van Herpen, Andreia Chaves, Julian Hakes and Marloes ten Bhomer already developed quality avant-garde products, well received both in museums and on the fashion market).
But applying the process of 3D printing to a larger category of garments is still problematic. The 3D printed gown, developed by Michael Schmidt and Francis Bitonti promisses a new age for the fashion industry. The product was mediatized as the first full 3D print garment. In reality, Iris van Herpen already did it (remember her rapid-prototyled couture-pieces?).
In Manhattan, Dita Von Teese recently modelled a specially printed nylon mesh dress for a private runway event. The gown was designed in collaboration by Michael Schmidt and Francis Bitonti and printed on a 3-D printer at Shapeways. The garment was designed to fit Dita’s body, moving and flowing on her famous curves. The mesh is a smart choice because it allows flexibility, which is a great achievement compared to previous attempts, still rigid, therefore impossible to wear on the daily basis. Bitonti used Von Teese’s measurements, building a 3-D model of the dress and adapting Schmidt’s original sketch to fit her body using Maya, the high-end design software used for commercial projects including architecture, product manufacturing, and animated movies. Then in Rhino, another design software that allows for precise surface manipulation, he detailed 2,633 independent rings, or links, that formed the body of the dress. The whole thing was laser sintered on an EOS P350 in 17 parts which were then manually assembled.
Blowing away traditional design methods, 3D printing reveals an entirely new concept of garments production and marketing. Rejecting the hands-on manufacturing, it goes for digital designed combined with machine made. Imagine the impact this could have on the fashion industry, currently based on cheap manufacturing and sweatshops. The development of the 3D scan techniques allows the engineers to design garments on custom fit, so we could rapidly get a costume to fit our particular body.
Indeed, there are many issues to discuss at this point: the proper materials to use (we would like some body friendly materials), the correct price and other technical details as the closure system of such a garment. But I guess, the big move was already done – they managed to “print’ a wearable garment!
This sounds quite exciting, but, in the same time it’s a little bit scaring.
images via wired.com
The Hoxton Window Project , London, is hosted by UNIT9 and curated by Anrick Bregman. “Our premise is simple: we have four windows overlooking Hoxton Square, and we want to keep those windows covered with interesting art, whatever form that takes. We welcome all different types of artists, from illustration and graphic design to projections or interactive pieces… “. So far, this project involved various artists, as Matt Saunders, Benjamin Carr, Hattie Stewart, Su Kyung Lee, Jon Burgerman, and it’s still a work in progress.