Design

RED

Definitely Rad Hourani is an exceptional presence on contemporary fashion scene. The French-Canadian designer clearly traced his own path from the very beginning. Opting for the minimal approach, he was strongly determined to redefine the ‘neutral’ look in fashion – genderless, raceless, ageless, limitless. Preoccupied by aesthetic beyond fashion, perfecting his creative expression during the years – paying great attention to every detail, calibrating proportions and shapes, Hourani coined the concept of unisex couture.

Rad Hourani’s Red collection presented at DHC/ART Foundation for Contemporary Art, deserves a closer look. The effect of this stunning red in conjuction with Hourani’s signature architectural garment construction is literally breathtaking.

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ART BY ADRIANA VAREJÃO / IMAGINE BRAZIL EXHIBITION CURATED BY HANS-ULRICH OBRIST + CHERYL SIM AT DHC/ART

MODELS CAMILLE + SOPHIA + JEEHYE + RICHARD PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRENT GOLDSMITH – STYLE SASHA WELLS – MAKEUP PATRICK RAHMÉ – HAIR JASON WILLIAMS

images source: radhourani.com

Surpising Details – Dior Fall 2016

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The first Dior ready-to-wear show after Raf Simons’ departure from the house wasn’t bad at all. Although the overall atmosphere dominated by black outfits might seem a little too sober, we can spot quality details, as specific garment designs (high collars, perfect shaped knitwear) and more energizing fashion styling (delicious punk details such as safety pin earrings).

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Images via vogue.com

Cottweiler

BEN COTTRELL AND MATTHEW DAINTY, COLLECTIVELY KNOW AS COTTWEILER, ARE CONCEPT LED DESIGNERS WHO RESPOND INSTINCTIVELY TO THEIR SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT. FORWARD THINKING DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING IS COMBINED WITH AN ASPIRATIONAL QUALITY TO FORM A RELEVANT, MENSWEAR LABEL.

IN ADDITION TO PRODUCING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS STOCKED WORLDWIDE, COTTWEILER PRODUCE FILMS AND INSTALLATIONS, WHICH HAVE BEEN SHOWCASED AT THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS, LONDON, HAUS DER KUNST, MUNICH AND ALISON JACQUES GALLERY, LONDON.

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Primarily, Cottweiler caught my attention through their innovative approach to athletic gear. Since sportswear became a major orientation in fashionable streetwear of the moment, there is a constant need to redefine it. Design duo Matt Dainty and Ben Cottrell definitely know how to do that. Throughout seasons, with every new Cottweiler collection, their style becomes more and more refined, achieving a luxurious touch.

I appreciate their taste for art installations instead the traditional catwalk shows, their interest for technical vs. natural fabrics, their carefully constructed details and stunning fashion silhouettes. Cotweiler’s Fall 15 menswear collection, shown at Alison Jacques Gallery, London, mixing the sport casual vibe with stylish and weird display (see pictures), deserves a special consideration. A smart combination of sport elements, workwear style, sophisticated details and hi-tech fabrics, I guess this is what should be labeled as “modern sportswear”. While workwear inspiration always proved to be a successful formula (from jeans and Doc Martens to aprons and overalls), Cottweiler leads it to another level – look at those white boots, amazing!

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images via showstudio.com

Cool Sporty Embroideries

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Lately, the possible connections that could be traced between fashion and art became the subject of quite interesting discussions. Whether fashion could be linked to the world of arts or whether art could play a fashion role – these questions remain opened for further explorations. On the other hand, we have to admit that we are dealing with two different things that don’t need to be forced to work together. At least not literally, like we saw in Viktor & Rolf demonstration for their last couture show.

In my opinion, the topic deserves a lighter treatment. That is why I picked James Merry’s work for example. His cute embroideries on vintage sweaters and his very personal way to adorn all those iconic sportswear logos with flowers, moss or mushrooms, seems to be a more adequate formula – smart, sincere, clean, honest… and wearable after all! The concept definitely deserves to be developed further while it could be extended at various levels.

James Merry, a very particular artist who spends his life between New York and Iceland, is already known as the creator of exquisite embroidered masks for Bjork’s stage shows or videos. James Merry is also a former collaborator of Damien Hirst and the author of an illustration book. His recent sportswear logo project (see the pictures) shows that he still has plenty to say, whether it would be in the field of art, fashion or something in between.

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Nike x Sacai Summer 2015

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“A rich and elegant disruption of iconic sport styles designed to come alive as you move”

The second collaboration between Nike Lab and the Japanese fashion label Sacai, delivers the perfect summer collection – simple and smart cuts, nice layering, a delicious mix of jersey with neon lace.

 

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images via clashmusic.com

Stiff Drapery

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Martijn Van Strien – piece from Dystopian Brutalist Outerwear collection, tarpaulin

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Danh Vo – detail of We the People project (deconstructing the Statue of Liberty), copper

 

Flashback Outfits

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Recently, while I took a photo to a friend of mine who was wearing a sport blouse adorned with a reflective grid print, I noticed the photo resulted was all black except of the grid which turned white. I thought that was cute and I shared it on Instagram. And I have also learnt what happens when you use reflective items in photography.

A similar phenomenon inspired the Betabrand‘s Chris Holmes flashback collection. While sporting reflective clothes during several performances, DJ Chris Holmes noticed that some photos taken during the shows were ruined because of reflection effects. But that was also the starting point for developing a series of fashion items designed to ruin paparazzi pictures. That is how flashback’collection was born.

The line contains five pieces; ‘photobomber’, ‘illuminati jacket and pants’, ‘silver screen scarf’ and the ‘halo hats’. The fabric used was coated with glass nanospheres. The highly reflective garments became some kind of ‘magic kit’ able to help people who do not want their picture taken.  Basically, we deal with a 2-in-1 concept: regular clothes on a daily basis + invisible wearer when captured in photographs. That’s a smart, funny and simple idea – I like it!

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Betabrand, Chris Holmes – reflective betabrand flashback clothing / images via designboom.com