The cover shoot for i-D mag Spring 2015 (‘The Activist Issue‘) featuring various brands like Martine Rose, Rick Owens, Vetements, Nike, Supreme or Marc by Marc Jacobs, puts together loose jackets, hoodies, oversized jogging pants, sporty tops and sneakers in order to achieve a sophisticated silhouette evolving beyond activewear in some kind of urban-contemporary-charming-Vetement(s)esque style.
i-D Magazine, Spring 2015 fashion editorial
Photo: Willy Vanderperre / Fashion Director: Alastair McKimm / Hair: Duffy / Make-up: Lynsey Alexander / Nail technician: Charlene Coguard / Model: Natalie Westling (The Society) / images via i-d.vice.com
Duckie Brown new menswear collection recently displayed at NYFW, proved once again that American design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver are really daring. I mean, to built an entire menswear collection around the idea of oversized pants folded around the waist in order to fit a normal guy silhouette, to introduce luxurious silks and match them with those colored Eastland shoes – that’s truly adventurous. And uber cool. What about the sheer tops and the infamous electric yellow suit?
Aesthetically, the pieces are gorgeous and the silhouettes have a very particular charm. But after all, are the male customers prepared for such a surprise? It seems that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver decided to assume the risk. In my opinion that’s what any creative designer should do from time to time. I love these pants anyway!
Any new initiative is greeted at first with a certain suspicion. Likewise, it was some buzz around the idea of a NYFW designed especially for MEN. Taking into consideration the iconic American brands plus the multitude of new upcoming designers, New York definitly has something to say in menswear. It has a powerful identity standing out in the field through minimalistic and functional approach, a welcomed alternative to London, Paris or Milan Fashion Weeks.
Alternative too was Public School’s presentation during New York Menswear Fashion Week. They skipped the usual runway in favour of a kind of performance imitating the police line up. Models and real people (including favorite ‘suspects’ as Nick Wooster or Waris Ahluwalia) were put into glass boxes, an idea that perfectly fit to display Public School’s SS 2016 collection. Keeping it simple in black, white and navy blue, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne payed their tribute to American menswear. With subtle grid prints, silky bomber jachets, shorts, sporty caps, long vests paired with Generic Man sneakers - the collection is flawless.
Usually Craig Green’s fashion shows delight the audience through designer’s signature mix of art installations and ready to wear outfits. His new Spring 2016 menswear collection makes no exception. The clothes designed in sparkling colors, with all the quilted and laced details, spread good vibes as for a perfectly summery mood. I guess the proper craftsmanship combined with the lightness and looseness of the outfits is one of the most important assets of Craig Green menswear.
In terms of installations, I particularly liked the minimalist approach in this collection. With the skeleton hidden inside, cleansed from additional details, the black/red/white color blocks look really powerful. Merely flat as canvases, these giant installations are endowed with a more subtle spatiality – the slits and round cutouts look as accurate and concise as Lucio Fontana’s artworks.
Craig Green Spring 2016 Menswear/ images via style.com
“A rich and elegant disruption of iconic sport styles designed to come alive as you move”
The second collaboration between Nike Lab and the Japanese fashion label Sacai, delivers the perfect summer collection – simple and smart cuts, nice layering, a delicious mix of jersey with neon lace.
images via clashmusic.com