Fashion trends

Iconic Inspiration – Margot Tenenbaum

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Margot Tenenbaum – the heroine of The Royal Tenenbaums (2001), directed by Wes Anderson

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The Royal Tenenbaums inspired fashion editorial in All Magazine, November 2015

Pirelli Calendar 2016 – Shifting The Perspective

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Pirelli Calendar 2016 foreword – Chinese actress Yao Chen / Photographer: Annie Leibovitz

Featuring real people in recent fashion imagery is not entirely new. While the new direction has already been drawn (Joan Didion posed for Celine, Marc Jacobs or Lanvin featured real people and role models in their ad-campaigns), the Pirelli calendar 2016 highlights once again an important shift of perspective. The Italian tire company, worldwide renowned for its annual photo series of top models and celebrities, shot by the best fashion photographers, breaks conventions for 2016 and becomes conceptual.

Showcasing ‘women of achievement’ instead of usual semi-naked models, the 2016 Pirelli calendar presents a special gallery of 13 charismatic women of different ages, picked from various fields (actors, bloggers, business women, artists etc.).

In the pages of new Pirelli calendar, Tavi Gevinson and Serena Williams sit next to Patti Smith, Shirin Nehat, Fran Lebowitz or Yoko Ono. Shot by Annie Leibovitz, everything looks quite natural yet incredibly powerful. Fascinating! Focusing on the consistency of persons rather than ideal/desirable/commercial feminine looks, the Pirelli approach succeeds to make a statement on relevant movements in contemporary culture.

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The 12 ladies of Pirelli Calendar 2016: Natalia Vodianova, Kathleen Kennedy, Agnes Gund & Sadie Rain Hope-Gund, Serena Williams, Fran Lebowitz, Mellody Hobson, Ava Duvernay, Tavi Gevinson, Shirin Nehat, Yoko Ono, Patti Smith, Amy Schumer / Photographer: Annie Leibovitz

Mighty Volumes

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The Mighty fashion editorial in Fall 2015 issue of Fantastic Man Magazine delivers an outstanding lesson about volumes, new menswear styles and fashionable silhouettes. Actor and model Connor Newall wears designer pieces from Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Juun.J, Lanvin, Versace, Lacoste, Craig Green and Camper, perfectly groomed by Julian Ganio and lensed by Andreas Larsson.

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Fantastic Man, F/W 2015 / Photographer: Andreas Larsson / Styling: Julian Ganio / Hair-styling: Naoki Komiya / Model: Connor Newall

Lingerie Inspiration

The concept of underwear worn as outerwear is not new to fashion. It has been around for a few seasons – we’ve spotted lingerie elements in various designer collections, promoted by celebrities, sometimes borrowed in streetstyle looks. Yet, for the Spring Summer 2016, lingerie inspiration seems more prominent than ever before.

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Alexander Wang Spring 2016

In a realm which favors oversized volumes, baggy styles and genderless tailoring, I guess there is a need for softer elements. Whether it is more a matter of styling (as seen at Dries Van Noten, Vetements or Saint Laurent) or becomes an inspiration for entirely new constructions (check Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Celine), lingerie is far from exhausting its power of seduction.

Bringing lingerie into the spotlight could be also regarded as an attempt to revamp and redefine femininity in terms fashion design. Let’s see in which way all those brassiere details, frills, negligees or pajamas will impact the configuration of our wardrobes.

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Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2016

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Balenciaga Spring 2016

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Dries Van Noten Spring 2016

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Lanvin Spring 2016

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Miu Miu Spring 2016

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Celine Spring 2016

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Saint Laurent Spring 2016

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Vetements Spring 2016

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Hood by Air Spring 2016

images source: vogue.com

Playing the Game

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Let’s Play the Game! – the fashion editorial produced in exclusivity for Fucking Young! Online delivers a few stunning looks of sporty oversized menswear, featuring pieces from labels such as Liam Hodges, HAAL, Madhouse, Christian Lacroix, Martine Rose, Emily Sanders, Alpha Industries. Good work!

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Production: Tamara Perez / Grooming: Santiago Aguero Rodriguez / Photo: Aylen Torres / styling: Rebeca Sueiro / Models: Ronn at Elite and Archie at D1 / images via fuckingyoung.es

MQ Vienna Fashion Week – focus Romanian Designers

For several years now, each September, Vienna’s MuseumsQuartier becomes a fashion hub that brings together about 70 designers. Various Austrian and international designers/brands show their collections on catwalk shows and in the adjacent sales area of Quartier21, which invites visitors to go shopping.

Looking at Romanian designers that recently showed their Spring/Summer 16 collections at Vienna Fashion Week, I’ve picked my favorite pieces from three of them: Irina Schrotter, Smaranda Almasan and Andrea Tincu.

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Irina Schrotter SS 16

Irina Schrotter’s brand was launched in Iasi, Romania. Flowing evening gowns and smart business clothes were an instant hit among women in search for an alternative everyday wear. Since 2012 Irina Schrotter’s main line has been created in collaboration with designer Lucian Broscatean. Irina Schrotter´s S/S 16 collection is characterized by geometric cuts, new proportions, conceptual details and different textile structures. Sophistication meets a cool and edgy attitude.

Irina Schrotter SS 16 collection is built on minimal & smart tailoring, featuring Lucian Broscatean’s signature asymmetric design pieces where lightweight fabrics are beautifully wrapped around the body. The result is a sophisticated, relaxed & sexy look completed with subtle accessories and luxurious details.

Head designer: Lucian Broscatean / Assistant designers: Carmen Chereches & Diana Flore/ Shoes: Mihaela Glavan

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Smaranda Almasan SS 16

Smaranda Almasan is a Romanian high-fashion design label. The collections are characterized by elegant designs, fine cuts and sharp silhouettes. The style is avant-garde to be worn every day, giving individuals a better opportunity to dress experimentally. Established in 2009, the studio is based in Cluj/Romania at the Paintbrush Factory, a collective space for contemporary arts.

Pursuing a creative direction that started a few seasons ago, Smaranda Almasan continues her fashion adventure imbued with vivid colours and spirit of playfulness. Her Spring/Summer 16 collection explores unusual combinations such as embroidered fabrics mixed with camouflage and applique details, finished with sporty elements. A particular artistic and experimental fashion approach that is worth to be watched / Shoes by Mihaela Glavan.

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Andrea Tincu SS 16

Andrea Tincu is a brand created for those who know high class fashion. From design to the final product, from special materials to flawlessly final touches including silk, Andrea Tincu is a fulfilled promise to the customer. Each collection has a different theme, being a totally fresh creation, preserving the designer’s personal style and emphasizing Andrea Tincu’s promise to provide novelty.The collections were presented on international catwalks such as Kiev, Vienna, Athens, Amsterdam, Sarajevo, Zagreb and London.

Titling her SS 16 collection The Magical Maze, Andrea Tincu carefully composes the outfits starting with black & white and shifting then to delicious summery hues. While keeping the white shirt as a central fashion item, Andrea Tincu explores the dialog of transparent and opaque elements, graphic effects strategically placed on the garments, hand made prints – everything based on quality natural fabrics / Shoes powered by Papucei

Cottweiler

BEN COTTRELL AND MATTHEW DAINTY, COLLECTIVELY KNOW AS COTTWEILER, ARE CONCEPT LED DESIGNERS WHO RESPOND INSTINCTIVELY TO THEIR SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT. FORWARD THINKING DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING IS COMBINED WITH AN ASPIRATIONAL QUALITY TO FORM A RELEVANT, MENSWEAR LABEL.

IN ADDITION TO PRODUCING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS STOCKED WORLDWIDE, COTTWEILER PRODUCE FILMS AND INSTALLATIONS, WHICH HAVE BEEN SHOWCASED AT THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS, LONDON, HAUS DER KUNST, MUNICH AND ALISON JACQUES GALLERY, LONDON.

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Primarily, Cottweiler caught my attention through their innovative approach to athletic gear. Since sportswear became a major orientation in fashionable streetwear of the moment, there is a constant need to redefine it. Design duo Matt Dainty and Ben Cottrell definitely know how to do that. Throughout seasons, with every new Cottweiler collection, their style becomes more and more refined, achieving a luxurious touch.

I appreciate their taste for art installations instead the traditional catwalk shows, their interest for technical vs. natural fabrics, their carefully constructed details and stunning fashion silhouettes. Cotweiler’s Fall 15 menswear collection, shown at Alison Jacques Gallery, London, mixing the sport casual vibe with stylish and weird display (see pictures), deserves a special consideration. A smart combination of sport elements, workwear style, sophisticated details and hi-tech fabrics, I guess this is what should be labeled as “modern sportswear”. While workwear inspiration always proved to be a successful formula (from jeans and Doc Martens to aprons and overalls), Cottweiler leads it to another level – look at those white boots, amazing!

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images via showstudio.com