1st class salad

Relevant fashion label – HOOD BY AIR

HOOD BY AIR_Fall 14 campaign

What is Hood by Air?

Hood By Air is a New York based streetwear label created by Shayne Oliver and Raul Lopez in 2006. Inspired by hip-hop culture the line features edgy garments and graphic tees printed in bold colors, usually bearing the signature HBA logo. Started as menswear with a collection based on sweatshirts and T-shirts, Hood by Air gradually evolved to more complex constructions. The outfits tend to be rather unisex.

Key words: T-shirts, sweatshirts, logo, prints, Centaur bootsbolddenim, leather, genderlesspowerwear.

While the classic HBA tees play a lot with graphics and logos (such as Paramount-inspired logo), more recent collections introduce daring cutouts, bold accessories, lace-up details and sophisticated layering. After Oliver Shayne was awarded with the LVMH Young Fashion Designers special prize there was a significant shift in label’s evolution, which obviously became more luxurious.

Hood By Air items can be purchased online  (check VFiles), as well as from famous boutiques like Opening Ceremony and Colette.

Why is it so relevant?

Firstly, because it is an example of American design at its best! Hood by Air delivers extremely clean and wearable clothes, re-imagining Americana style and giving it a fresh allure. The collaboration with Italian footwear brand Forfex resulted in a line of amazing boots, another great addition to the HBA overall look. Although the clothes per se are neither artsy nor emotional, they have instead an experimental component and an evident sexual charge.

Then, because it succeeds to be avant-garde being in the same time ’normal’. Actually, Hood by Air is a smart hybrid between streetwear and high-end fashion, better said an avant-garde streetstyle. In the context of boredom and indifference which dominates fashion lately (see normcore), HBA delivers something new.

Finally, HBA already means much more than clothing. Exploring notions as body, identity, gender, Hood by Air aims to grow its influence as international lifestyle brand. Indeed, working across different creative mediums, they succeeded to build an entire world around these garments. And that’s precisely what makes the difference between ’another label’ and  a powerful force in contemporary culture.

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A prominent event in their work it’s the recent ‘HBA trilogy’ conceived for the  S/S 2015 collection. Having the exploration of the male self – id, superego, ego – as the main theme, the collection has been exposed in three parts:

Part 1 (EGO), presented at NYFW introduced some cool kids wearing signature cut out pieces and amazing plexi choker necklaces; Part 2, (SUPEREGO), which took place in  an abandoned office space in Paris focused mainly on  ”refashioned versions of men’s tailoring, meant for a world where the codes transmitted by a traditional suit no longer exist“(Maya Singer); Part 3 (ID), back in New York at MoMA did not present a new collection, but a party performance and multimedia installation. Bringing together costumes and elements of the previous two collections, with the participation of artists as Mykki Blanco, Boychild, Venus X, Fatima Al Qadiri, Leilah Weinraub, SSION, Total Freedom, HBA’s PopRally event at MoMa delivered an unified view on brand philosophy.

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Hood By Air – SS 2015, Part 1, NYFW / images via style.com

 

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Hood By Air, SS 2015 – Part 2, Paris Fashion Week/ photo via mtv.com

 

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Hood By Air – SS 2015, Part 3, MoMa , New York/ photo via i-d.vice.com

 

 

Sugar Monsters

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From spooky characters in literature and cinema, extravagant pop icons, fashion victims and deviant consumers, there are plenty of monsters around. The role of the artist is to observe and comment, to put everything into a coherent framework. To surprise us, entertain us, challenge us, cure us.

James Ostrer‘s photographic series Wotsit all About depicts monstrous creatures made out of sugar, sweets and foodstuffs, assembled in a way that recalls primitive art. Referring to contemporary addictions and our culture’s dietary concerns, the artist mocks his own weaknesses and guilty pleasures.

I wanted to redefine the human species in modern tribes based on what they eat.”

Ostrer studied at the Royal College of Art, before becoming a set designer at the English National Ballet. The artist lives and works in London. His work talks about the body politics in the ever evolving analysis of the western body, sexuality, and society, functioning in the same time as “self-help therapy”.

The photographs from Wotsit all About series have been exposed at Gazelli Art House, London.

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WOTSIT ALL ABOUT – James Ostrer

 

HUNTERS by Ioana Ciolacu

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The “Designer for Tomorrow” fashion talent award has been presented as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin since 2009. As an initiative of Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and its online shop Fashion ID, the award provides a visible platform for creativity. It offers top up-and-coming fashion talent the opportunity to be discovered and to receive a great deal of attention from the fashion industry and the public.

In July 2013, Ioana Ciolacu won the fashion talent award and since then she`s been on a sponsorship program, during which she went on a voyage of inspiration to Paris, visited Stella McCartney’s design studios and went to choose fabrics in Hamburg – and much more besides. As the highlight of the program, the Romanian designer is now presenting the new S/S 2015 collection, her first solo fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin (read more here).

Ioana Ciolacu ‘Hunters’ collection consists of 25 feminine outfits. Inspired by the relationship between hunter and prey, the designer knew how to develop a clean and smart collection, perfectly suited for contemporary lifestyle. Starting with the quality of the fabrics, the modernity of shapes and silhouettes introduced, continuing with the accuracy of finishings and the refined solutions found from necklines to hems, everything was impeccably conducted to get a coherent ensemble which is also highly commercially appealing.

The ‘Hunters’ theme served as a nice pretext to develop digital prints inspired by plumage of birds, along with structured and laser cut details designed to highlight the silhouettes. Elegant, sporty, urban with a luxurious touch, the collection is well balanced and flawless – a tremendous achievement for a young designer, paving her way to the challenging world of high fashion.

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To get a full picture of Ioana Ciolacu’s collection, check the show video from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin - ’Designer for tommorow’.

Fashion Is Attitude!

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Coney Island Adventure in  SRC783 Magazine. Photo: Jason Lee Parry/ Styling: Jewlie Brooke / Makeup: Erin Green/Hair-style: Staci Child/ Model: Ashley Smith/ images via fashiongonerogue.com

Iconic Conversations

Can you conceive any similarity between the characters depicted in classic artworks and contemporary hip-hoppers? Cecilia Azcarate proves that a conversation between hip hop and art before the 16th century is not only possible, but somehow legitimate. Her comparative exercise relies mainly on body adornments such as tattoos and nose-rings, continuing with accessories such as medal pendants and fur collars. I find these connections smart, funny, creative, impressive – which is a 1st class salad!

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Left: detail of Christ Blessing surrounded by a Donor Family. Unknown German Painter 1560 – Right: Kanye West

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Left: The Adoration of the Magi.Hugo van der Goes. Netherlandish. Late 15th century. Right: Wiz Khalifa

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Left: Detail of 1500 Tapiserie - Right: Boychild

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Left: Detail of ”The Martyrdom of Saint Lawrence,” oil on wood, by Masters of the Acts of Mercy (Austrian, Salzburg, c. 1465) Right: ASAP Ferg

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Left: Male Ancestor. 1st–4th century. Mesoamerica. Nayarit  - Right: Young Thug

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Left: Quentin Massys. Ecce Homo-1520 – Right: 2 Chainz

Beauty Tip – The RED Tape

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Perhaps the Givenchy Fall 2014 Collection is not among my favorites. However, I declare their face lift red tape the chicest accessory of the season.

How it was made? Face tapes were layered with red plastic coating, applied on both temples and tied together with a string at the back of the head. Pat McGrath, the makeup artist behind the scenes, notes that this tape—meant to be seen as a fashion accessory, gently pulling models’ faces upward—was very much a “statement of today.”

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images via style.com

The Perfect Shoes – Dior Fall 2014

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Sporty, robotic, elegant – Raf Simons’ design for Dior Fall 2014 collection is surely a highlight of the season. I’ve always said that a good designer is one who knows how to define a fashion silhouette, to finish it from head to toe. In this regard (and in many others), Raf Simons proves to be the best.

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images via style.com