1st class salad
Just when you thought you’re already tired of discussing fashion issues, emerging trends, early signals and impossible ideals, something special pops up to feed your enthusiasm.
Vanessa Schindler, a fresh graduate of fashion design caught my interest with her experimental menswear collection. Exploring basic pieces in men’s wardrobe (jackets, sweaters, shirts, shorts and shoes), she adores playing with unexpected fabrics and redesigning the silhouettes.
Peculiarly titled Oui c’est du renne du bord de la route, Vanessa Schindler’s Bachelor Collection (from University of Art and Design HEAD Geneva, Switzerland) leads us in a different world, ruled by new forces, alternative shapes and amusing details.
Curious about her fashion inspiration, personal vision and future plans, I took Vanessa a short interview:
How it all started?
It started a long time ago when I begun to collect different materials found in my hometown in Switzerland. Supermarket ropes and elastic threads, cow hide, reindeer fur, wood, lycra… This collection became a play between the man’s classical wardrobe and these materials.
The main accessory is a stick of wood painted in yellow. In each silhouette, it disturbs the regular shape of these garments. It runs through them, exaggerates them, lifts them up and stretches them.
To me it was a way to think about fashion. How our eyes get used to abstract ideas. Pushing the boundaries. Seeing how far I could go with the yellow stick. See how we are able, or not, to get use to new shapes on a body. This collection is more a reflection and amusement about menswear. Six masculine totems, masculine sculptures, a men’s collection.
(Literal translation of the title: “Yes this reindeer was found by the side of the road”)
I chose menswear because I believe it is more liberated from social stigma, it allows more humor and constructivism around its form. And simply because I wanted to built these men figures.
What was your favorite part in the design process?
Maybe when you start visualizing the final result, when you begin to see what it will become, and if the result fits with the idea you had in mind. This moment when you just race to make it become real!
How do you feel as a fresh graduate? what’s next?
I feel well! I already did a few internships, one at Etudes Studio and another at Balenciaga. Today I’m an intern at Henrik Vibskov Studio in Copenhagen. Next? Probably a new personal project focusing more on accessories and installations.
I attached below some images selected from Vanessa’s research book, to get a glimpse of the complex documentation process and inspiration behind this fashion collection.
Photo Credits: Julien Chavaillaz and Philippe Fragnière
The Business of Fashion, the professional resource for fashion industry insiders, launched BoF 500 – an innovative, multi-channel initiative that examines the people shaping the global fashion industry. Gathering together various roles in the business of fashion (from designers, stylists, models & muses to executives, entrepreneurs and fashion catalysts), the list displays well-known figures of the fashion scene and also introduces influent people working behind-the-scenes (investors, teachers, retailers etc.). Find the full list here.
To accompany this exciting project, BoF has also created a very special limited-run print edition, containing in-depth feature articles on some of the most interesting members of the BoF 500. To get a copy of this special edition, click here or visit Colette in Paris, Opening Ceremony in New York, London and Los Angeles, Le Mill in Mumbai and Sneakerboy in Melbourne.
As Imran Amed (Founder and Editor-in-Chief of BoF) underlines, “the BoF 500 is not a crude ranking, nor a simple list of names, but an ever-evolving index of fashion’s most dynamic global players.”
(therefore, it’s a must-read whether you’re a fashion industry insider or you’re looking for a break in)
I recently came across Erwina Ziomkowska‘s artworks. For their visual power, for their fashion flavour, for their delicate absurdity, these pieces certainly deserve a closer look.
Erwina Ziomkowska is a Polish artist, who “produces minimal facilities and temporary installations. ”
Inclined for a minimalist way of acting, the artist opts for repetitive activities as grooving, puncturing, scratching, threading. At the end of the day, she reveals some beautiful and impossible objects: metallic underwear (dangerous inside), a pinned clutch bag, pinned shoes, etc. The extreme intensity of work (similar to irrationally-compulsive behaviours) contrasts the purified forms of the completed objects, picturing a sterile cool beauty.
“A crucial element for the understanding of the works presented is an omnipresent doubt, which appears here the whole time (but with a different intensity) with a gentle kind of tension underneath. This sense of uncertainty appears to drive the whole acting system, based on the principle of repetition, bringing to mind a ritual process of transition. Where the rhythm of multiplied actions organizes the change, thus activating a complex process of internal transformation.
As far as the ritual goes there is a sort of external manifestation easing the transformation appearance- the subject of time passing, taken simultaneously, is a component driving this process from the inside.”
images source: saatchionline.com
From February 13th until April 7th, ATOPOS cvc is presenting its ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion exhibition at La Gaîté lyrique. The craziest, sexiest and most radical monstrous creatures are invading Paris!
Atopos is a non-profit cultural organization based in Athens. Founded in 2003 by Stamos J. Fafalios and Vassilis Zidianakis, Atopos is already a powerful reference in contemporary fashion, collaborating with various designers and artists, for exhibitions, publications, performances and events. In less than 10 years, Atopos CVC (its name denoting the strange, the unwonted, the eccentric and the unclassifiable) is a meeting point for different visual disciplines, gathering rare original creations of contemporary designers. Atopos stands out with their unusual projects focusing on the human figure and its relationship with costume – see RRRIPP! Paper Fashion (now in Germany, Waiblingen), Atopic Bodies, ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion (with the first presentation at the Benaki Museum in Athens, and currently on display in Paris, at La Gaite Lyrique).
Based on an original idea by Vasslis Zidianakis, with the design of Fafalios Stamos, ARRRGH! Monsters in Fashion manages a unique combination of fashion, animation, costume and art. Participating designers and artists reshape the human body and reveal a new universe full of dreams, nightmares and hybrid creatures. The theme seem very appealing to me, and the 58 exhibitors from around the world, turns it into a stunning cocktail:
Alexander Mcqueen UK, Alex Mattsson SE, Alexis Themistocleous CY, Andrea Ayala Closa ES, Andrea Cammarosano IT, Andrea Crews FR, Bart Hess NL, Bas Kosters NL, Bernhard Willhelm DE, Boris Hoppek DE, Bronwen Marshall UK, Cassette Playa & Gary Card UK, Charlie Le Mindu FR, Chi He CN, Claire Michel FR, Craig Green UK, David Curtis-Ring UK, Digitaria GR, Dr Noki’s NHS UK, Erika Mizuno JP, Freeka Tet FR, Filep Motwary & Maria Mastori CY & GR, George Tourlas GR, Helen Price UK, Henrik Vibskov DK, Heyniek NL, Hideki Seo JP, Isabel Mastache Martinez ES, Issey Miyake & Dai Fujiwara JP, Jean-Paul Lespagnard BE, Josefin Arnell SE, Kim Traeger DK, Leutton Postle UK, Luis Lopez Smith UK, Mads Dinesen DK, Maison Martin Margiela FR, Manon Kündig CH, Marcus Tomlinson – Gareth Pugh UK, Mareunrol’s LV, On Aura Tout Vu FR, Paul Graves US, Pictoplasma DE, Pierre-Antoine Vettorello FR, Piers Atkinson UK, Rejina Pyo KR, Rick Owens US, Rozalb De Mura RO, Shin Murayama JP, Sotiris Bakagiannis GR, Takashi Nishiyama JP, The Brainstorm Design GR, Tracy Widdess CA, Toma Stenko RU, Urban Camouflage DE, Walter Van Beirendonck BE