1st class salad
The “Designer for Tomorrow” fashion talent award has been presented as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin since 2009. As an initiative of Peek & Cloppenburg Düsseldorf and its online shop Fashion ID, the award provides a visible platform for creativity. It offers top up-and-coming fashion talent the opportunity to be discovered and to receive a great deal of attention from the fashion industry and the public.
In July 2013, Ioana Ciolacu won the fashion talent award and since then she`s been on a sponsorship program, during which she went on a voyage of inspiration to Paris, visited Stella McCartney’s design studios and went to choose fabrics in Hamburg – and much more besides. As the highlight of the program, the Romanian designer is now presenting the new S/S 2015 collection, her first solo fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin (read more here).
Ioana Ciolacu ‘Hunters’ collection consists of 25 feminine outfits. Inspired by the relationship between hunter and prey, the designer knew how to develop a clean and smart collection, perfectly suited for contemporary lifestyle. Starting with the quality of the fabrics, the modernity of shapes and silhouettes introduced, continuing with the accuracy of finishings and the refined solutions found from necklines to hems, everything was impeccably conducted to get a coherent ensemble which is also highly commercially appealing.
The ‘Hunters’ theme served as a nice pretext to develop digital prints inspired by plumage of birds, along with structured and laser cut details designed to highlight the silhouettes. Elegant, sporty, urban with a luxurious touch, the collection is well balanced and flawless – a tremendous achievement for a young designer, paving her way to the challenging world of high fashion.
To get a full picture of Ioana Ciolacu’s collection, check the show video from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin - ’Designer for tommorow’.
Can you conceive any similarity between the characters depicted in classic artworks and contemporary hip-hoppers? Cecilia Azcarate proves that a conversation between hip hop and art before the 16th century is not only possible, but somehow legitimate. Her comparative exercise relies mainly on body adornments such as tattoos and nose-rings, continuing with accessories such as medal pendants and fur collars. I find these connections smart, funny, creative, impressive – which is a 1st class salad!
Left: detail of Christ Blessing surrounded by a Donor Family. Unknown German Painter 1560 – Right: Kanye West
Left: The Adoration of the Magi.Hugo van der Goes. Netherlandish. Late 15th century. Right: Wiz Khalifa
Left: Detail of 1500 Tapiserie - Right: Boychild
Left: Detail of ”The Martyrdom of Saint Lawrence,” oil on wood, by Masters of the Acts of Mercy (Austrian, Salzburg, c. 1465) Right: ASAP Ferg
Left: Male Ancestor. 1st–4th century. Mesoamerica. Nayarit - Right: Young Thug
Left: Quentin Massys. Ecce Homo-1520 – Right: 2 Chainz
Perhaps the Givenchy Fall 2014 Collection is not among my favorites. However, I declare their face lift red tape the chicest accessory of the season.
How it was made? Face tapes were layered with red plastic coating, applied on both temples and tied together with a string at the back of the head. Pat McGrath, the makeup artist behind the scenes, notes that this tape—meant to be seen as a fashion accessory, gently pulling models’ faces upward—was very much a “statement of today.”
images via style.com
Sporty, robotic, elegant – Raf Simons’ design for Dior Fall 2014 collection is surely a highlight of the season. I’ve always said that a good designer is one who knows how to define a fashion silhouette, to finish it from head to toe. In this regard (and in many others), Raf Simons proves to be the best.
images via style.com
Just when you thought you’re already tired of discussing fashion issues, emerging trends, early signals and impossible ideals, something special pops up to feed your enthusiasm.
Vanessa Schindler, a fresh graduate of fashion design caught my interest with her experimental menswear collection. Exploring basic pieces in men’s wardrobe (jackets, sweaters, shirts, shorts and shoes), she adores playing with unexpected fabrics and redesigning the silhouettes.
Peculiarly titled Oui c’est du renne du bord de la route, Vanessa Schindler’s Bachelor Collection (from University of Art and Design HEAD Geneva, Switzerland) leads us in a different world, ruled by new forces, alternative shapes and amusing details.
Curious about her fashion inspiration, personal vision and future plans, I took Vanessa a short interview:
How it all started?
It started a long time ago when I begun to collect different materials found in my hometown in Switzerland. Supermarket ropes and elastic threads, cow hide, reindeer fur, wood, lycra… This collection became a play between the man’s classical wardrobe and these materials.
The main accessory is a stick of wood painted in yellow. In each silhouette, it disturbs the regular shape of these garments. It runs through them, exaggerates them, lifts them up and stretches them.
To me it was a way to think about fashion. How our eyes get used to abstract ideas. Pushing the boundaries. Seeing how far I could go with the yellow stick. See how we are able, or not, to get use to new shapes on a body. This collection is more a reflection and amusement about menswear. Six masculine totems, masculine sculptures, a men’s collection.
(Literal translation of the title: “Yes this reindeer was found by the side of the road”)
I chose menswear because I believe it is more liberated from social stigma, it allows more humor and constructivism around its form. And simply because I wanted to built these men figures.
What was your favorite part in the design process?
Maybe when you start visualizing the final result, when you begin to see what it will become, and if the result fits with the idea you had in mind. This moment when you just race to make it become real!
How do you feel as a fresh graduate? what’s next?
I feel well! I already did a few internships, one at Etudes Studio and another at Balenciaga. Today I’m an intern at Henrik Vibskov Studio in Copenhagen. Next? Probably a new personal project focusing more on accessories and installations.
I attached below some images selected from Vanessa’s research book, to get a glimpse of the complex documentation process and inspiration behind this fashion collection.
Photo Credits: Julien Chavaillaz and Philippe Fragnière