A Very Particular Approach

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Perfectly designed and featuring a particular approach to the fashion clientele, Jun Takahashi’s latest Undercover collection might be regarded as the most pleasant surprise of the Fall 2016 season. The sophisticated shapes and fabrics, color palette, wonderful prints inspired by the works of Matthieu Bourel, the gracious styling, the unconventional casting, everything comes together in a coherent and topical fashion statement. I felt it like a breath of fresh air.

 

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Images source: vogue.com

Surpising Details – Dior Fall 2016

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The first Dior ready-to-wear show after Raf Simons’ departure from the house wasn’t bad at all. Although the overall atmosphere dominated by black outfits might seem a little too sober, we can spot quality details, as specific garment designs (high collars, perfect shaped knitwear) and more energizing fashion styling (delicious punk details such as safety pin earrings).

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Images via vogue.com

FKA Twigs x Calvin Klein Jeans

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Calvin Klein ad campaigns definitely should be referred as visual and conceptual landmarks of the last fashion decades. The recently released Calvin Klein Jeans ad campaign, starring avant-garde artist FKA Twigs (plus dancer Kaner Flex) goes even further, adding more dynamism and sensuality to the image of the American cult label.

The Calvin Klein ad unveils a series of clean & dramatic photos shot by David Sims along with a special video directed by FKA Twigs and related to her latest single “Good to Love”.

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Gucci Ad Campaign Spring/Summer 2016

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Gucci’s new look promoted by Alessandro Michele is simply impossible to be ignored. I admit that this particular mix of exotism, decadence, vintage glamour, hipsterism and granny-chic style has something catchy. Yet, as we know, any idea has to be put within a story in order to make real sense. In this case, the Gucci Spring Summer 2016 Ad Campaign, shot by Glen Luchford, is not only the coherent framework to display all the beautifully crafted garments and accessories of the historic Italian label, but also the perfect story to bring them alive. And to make them more coveted than ever.

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Gucci Spring/Summer 2016.

Photo: Glen Luchford / fashion editor: Jane How / hair styling: Paul Hanlon / make-up: Yadim / art direction: Christopher Simmonds / models: Polina Oganicheva, Peyton Knight, Elizabeth Moore, Nicole Atieno, Mia Gruenwald, Anka Kuryndina, Viola Podkopaeva, Jacob Hugo Goldhoorn, Timothy Dibble, ArnisCievala, Anton Tofgart

Iconic Inspiration – Margot Tenenbaum

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Margot Tenenbaum – the heroine of The Royal Tenenbaums (2001), directed by Wes Anderson

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The Royal Tenenbaums inspired fashion editorial in All Magazine, November 2015

Louis Vuitton Menswear – Fall 2015

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After Xavier Dolan charmingly modeled Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for the 5th anniversary issue of Essential Homme, in its turn GQ Korea puts the luxury brand in sharp light for an ultra polished presentation. The sober elegant outfits, designed by Kim Jones, bear an artistic touch inspired by Christopher Nemeth.

Christopher Nemeth was an iconic figure on the British fashion scene, an artist turned into fashion designer, whose signature ‘rope motif’ was smartly interpreted by Kim Jones for the Louis Vuitton Fall 2015 Men collection.

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Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2015 Menswear collection in GQ Korea fashion editorial / Photographer: Hong Jang Hyun / styling: Nana Park model: Philipp Schmidt

 

Pirelli Calendar 2016 – Shifting The Perspective

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Pirelli Calendar 2016 foreword – Chinese actress Yao Chen / Photographer: Annie Leibovitz

Featuring real people in recent fashion imagery is not entirely new. While the new direction has already been drawn (Joan Didion posed for Celine, Marc Jacobs or Lanvin featured real people and role models in their ad-campaigns), the Pirelli calendar 2016 highlights once again an important shift of perspective. The Italian tire company, worldwide renowned for its annual photo series of top models and celebrities, shot by the best fashion photographers, breaks conventions for 2016 and becomes conceptual.

Showcasing ‘women of achievement’ instead of usual semi-naked models, the 2016 Pirelli calendar presents a special gallery of 13 charismatic women of different ages, picked from various fields (actors, bloggers, business women, artists etc.).

In the pages of new Pirelli calendar, Tavi Gevinson and Serena Williams sit next to Patti Smith, Shirin Nehat, Fran Lebowitz or Yoko Ono. Shot by Annie Leibovitz, everything looks quite natural yet incredibly powerful. Fascinating! Focusing on the consistency of persons rather than ideal/desirable/commercial feminine looks, the Pirelli approach succeeds to make a statement on relevant movements in contemporary culture.

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The 12 ladies of Pirelli Calendar 2016: Natalia Vodianova, Kathleen Kennedy, Agnes Gund & Sadie Rain Hope-Gund, Serena Williams, Fran Lebowitz, Mellody Hobson, Ava Duvernay, Tavi Gevinson, Shirin Nehat, Yoko Ono, Patti Smith, Amy Schumer / Photographer: Annie Leibovitz