Lately, the possible connections that could be traced between fashion and art became the subject of quite interesting discussions. Whether fashion could be linked to the world of arts or whether art could play a fashion role – these questions remain opened for further explorations. On the other hand, we have to admit that we are dealing with two different things that don’t need to be forced to work together. At least not literally, like we saw in Viktor & Rolf demonstration for their last couture show.
In my opinion, the topic deserves a lighter treatment. That is why I picked James Merry’s work for example. His cute embroideries on vintage sweaters and his very personal way to adorn all those iconic sportswear logos with flowers, moss or mushrooms, seems to be a more adequate formula – smart, sincere, clean, honest… and wearable after all! The concept definitely deserves to be developed further while it could be extended at various levels.
James Merry, a very particular artist who spends his life between New York and Iceland, is already known as the creator of exquisite embroidered masks for Bjork’s stage shows or videos. James Merry is also a former collaborator of Damien Hirst and the author of an illustration book. His recent sportswear logo project (see the pictures) shows that he still has plenty to say, whether it would be in the field of art, fashion or something in between.
SHOWSPACE, the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition presented by Live Archives, uncovers this week (31 July – 8 August) a selection of over 60 exceptional Yamamoto pieces. Jeffery Horsley, the curator, gathers together pieces from different collections and lines of the Japanese designer, in order to deliver a live show instead the normal fashion exhibition experience. Garments are displayed on live models and visitors are allowed to touch or try-on the clothes. I guess this is a proper take on the work of a fashion designer, especially when we’re talking about Yamamoto. Some of the pieces on show are also available for sale.
31 JULY-8 AUGUST 13.00-19.00 DAILY
Live Archives present
Yohji Yamamoto: SHOWSPACE,
an exhibition of work by celebrated Japanese-born fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto exhibited on live models, with a selection of specially sourced items for sale.
LIVE ARCHIVES, 81 MARE STREET, LONDON E8 4RG
Any new initiative is greeted at first with a certain suspicion. Likewise, it was some buzz around the idea of a NYFW designed especially for MEN. Taking into consideration the iconic American brands plus the multitude of new upcoming designers, New York definitly has something to say in menswear. It has a powerful identity standing out in the field through minimalistic and functional approach, a welcomed alternative to London, Paris or Milan Fashion Weeks.
Alternative too was Public School’s presentation during New York Menswear Fashion Week. They skipped the usual runway in favour of a kind of performance imitating the police line up. Models and real people (including favorite ‘suspects’ as Nick Wooster or Waris Ahluwalia) were put into glass boxes, an idea that perfectly fit to display Public School’s SS 2016 collection. Keeping it simple in black, white and navy blue, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne payed their tribute to American menswear. With subtle grid prints, silky bomber jachets, shorts, sporty caps, long vests paired with Generic Man sneakers - the collection is flawless.
Usually Craig Green’s fashion shows delight the audience through designer’s signature mix of art installations and ready to wear outfits. His new Spring 2016 menswear collection makes no exception. The clothes designed in sparkling colors, with all the quilted and laced details, spread good vibes as for a perfectly summery mood. I guess the proper craftsmanship combined with the lightness and looseness of the outfits is one of the most important assets of Craig Green menswear.
In terms of installations, I particularly liked the minimalist approach in this collection. With the skeleton hidden inside, cleansed from additional details, the black/red/white color blocks look really powerful. Merely flat as canvases, these giant installations are endowed with a more subtle spatiality – the slits and round cutouts look as accurate and concise as Lucio Fontana’s artworks.
Craig Green Spring 2016 Menswear/ images via style.com
“A rich and elegant disruption of iconic sport styles designed to come alive as you move”
The second collaboration between Nike Lab and the Japanese fashion label Sacai, delivers the perfect summer collection – simple and smart cuts, nice layering, a delicious mix of jersey with neon lace.
images via clashmusic.com