Archive for August 2011

Riccardo Tisci + Visionaire

Visionaire is a multi-format album of fashion and art produced in exclusive numbered limited editions. Published 3 times a year, Visionaire features a different theme and format with each issue. Artists work in collaboration with Visionaire to produce their personal interpretation on a certain theme. Visionaire issue #60 goes on religion, being guest-edited by Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci.

Tisci grew up in Italy and has a strong Catholic background – we feel it everywhere in his work, in all his fashion statements. With the Visionaire collaboration, he pushed the boundaries even more. Reenacting various biblical scenes for the Visionaire photo spreads, he re-defines the key religious moments in his personal way – a fashionable way. Madonna and Child, the Pietà, martyrs and saints, the Marriage and the Funeral are all there, featuring famous dramatis personae, like Lea T, Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Christina Ricci, Marina Abramovic etc. Not to mention the photographers involved: Inez & Vinoodh, Mert & Marcus, Pierpaolo Ferrari, Mario Testino etc.

The book comes bundled up in a wooden box, meant to evoke an altarpiece, and costs $495 – exclusive indeed! Contemporary black & white moods, dramatic styling, designers, photographers, models and celebrities  – to me, it looks like a delicious sample for the vanity of fashion.

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Walter Van Beirendonck’s Gentlemen

The truth is we’re already preparing for the Fall. Bye bye sun and wonderful summer days, I never get enough of you! Anyway, I’ve searched for a Fall collection which is colored enough to preserve the summer in our souls. .. something special and warm like Walter Van Beirendonck.

Van Beirendonk may not be the  most popular designer of our times, but, definitely, he has a smart, spirited and funny approach to Men’s fashion. Remember the WonderFur project, the “Kiss the future” slogan, the huge headphones collection? With every new collection, the Belgian designer plays on a new theme – he knows that creativity matters and always gives it a twist. For the Fall 2011/12 Men Collection he showed out something more “classic”, very “wearable” and literally elegant. Mixing the tribal spirit with the western elegance, he dressed up some African models after he made a casting in the street.  The looks remind me particularly of those Afro- dandies portrayed in Daniele Tamagni’ s book- “Gentlemen of Bacongo“. Van Beirendonck’s gentlemen from the catwalk or the snobbish gentlemen from Tamangni’s book, both of them show the same wonderful features- genuine color, creativity and a great enthusiasm. And I love the fashion enthusiasts!

Fashionable Camouflage

If you like sensitive prints, graphics, hand-made effects, black & white exercises, camouflage… Here’s an image from Remix Magazine (Journey Home) versus a full-covered outfit by Teodora Baciu, a fresh graduate of UAD, Cluj. I love the fabrics and the mood.


I saw this stunning textile piece some time ago, visiting  the Graduation Exhibition of Fashion Design students, at University of Art and Design, Cluj- Napoca. Loredana Novotni is a MA graduate, and the author of the red piece (actually there was a group of red pieces, entitled “Sacred”). Love her particular approach, the texture and the heart-shaped hips.

What Lies Beneath

What about this dark-romantic-surrealist editorial in the Fall issue of LOVE Mag? Stunning indeed!

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Editorial : What Lies Beneath / LOVE Magazine, Fall issue/ Photographers : Mert & Marcus/ editor-in-chief Katie Grand / models Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Saksia de Brauw, Kristen McMenamy, Anais Pouliot, Guinevere van Seenus and Xiao Wen Ju/ images via fashiongonerogue


We’re already in August, and I forgot to talk about beachwear, swimwear and related stuff. I also forgot to mention my favorite (beach)suit for summer 2011, which is, of course, Lanvin.
This gorgeous drape reminds me the art of Madame Gres, and, besides, I love the costume’s ambiguity – being something between underwear, beachwear and outwear.


*I’d like to see these costumes a little mis-worn, to look even more charming.


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Make It Hard

Have you ever questioned yourself about clothes in the world circuit, or textile metamorphosis in our everyday life? I always wonder about these, and then, looking over designer clothes, I’m swinging between delight and disgust.

As I’ve already talked in a former post about Tohoku – destruction and rebirth of the object through Art, now I have the opportunity to point out the reverse . Because for Helmut Lang, the famous Austrian-born designer,  25 years of collections and fashion pieces can be destroyed just-like-that, and turned into something new – sculptures.

A leading figure of 90’s minimalism, Helmut Lang has left a lasting mark on the industry. Following his brand’s acquisition by the Prada Group six years ago, Lang relocated to a Long Island studio to focus on his artistic career. After his official retiring from fashion in 2005, Helmut Lang isn’t a retired at all. Thus, he comes with a solo art exhibition at East Hampton’s Fireplace Project, and be sure he makes it hard.

Having already donated thousands of items from his vast archive to the crème de la crème of fashion and design museums worldwide, the designer-turned-artist has shredded his remaining 6,000 garments to use as raw material for making a series of sculptures. About a dozen stalactitelike pieces are to go on display from July 22 at The Fireplace Project, a gallery in East Hampton, N.Y., in a solo exhibition titled “Make it Hard.” According to writer and creative director Neville Wakefield, who is presenting the exhibition, Lang’s floor-to-ceiling columnar forms — made of scraps of fabrics, fur, feathers, leather, plastic, hair and metal from more than 25 years of fashion collections — erase the past and highlight “the transience of our creative endeavors.” The expo runs through Aug. 8.