Under the creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton fashion shows benefit from very special locations.
While Louis Vuitton’s Cruise show was staged at the Miho Museum in Kyoto, Japan, and 2019 Cruise show was hosted at the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, France, Nicolas Ghesquière choose for Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020 collection another iconic location – The TWA flight center, a newly renovated terminal of JFK airport. Designed by Eero Saarinen, the place was recently transformed in a public lobby for a new hotel by firms Beyer Blinder Belle and Lubrano Ciavarra Architects.
Working in collaboration with artist Es Devlin, the chic terminal featuring a red heart-shaped lounge was filled with plants to look like an hi-tech oasis, perfect to host a Louis Vuitton fashion show under the direction of Ghesquière. That was definitely a perfect match for an impeccably designed collection.
TWA flight center, JFK airport, New York
Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière, Cruise 2020 collection
Recent years saw a prominent rise of 3D printing technologies that were successfully implemented in shoe design. While 3D printing solutions were largely adopted in sportwear (Nike, Adidas, Under Armour, New Balance etc.) to design models that enhance confort and performance, the new technologies also transformed the fashionable approach to shoe design. Avant garde designs promoted by United Nude or Melissa, projects initiated by designers such as Marloes ten Bhomer, Julian Hakes or Sebastian Errazuriz, are relevant and inspiring for an entire new generation of fashion designers who are ready to reconfigure the industry of shoe-making.
P-rouette, the graduation project of Hadar Neeman, who studied at Bezalel Academy of Art and Design, Jerusalem, is relevant as it approaches a less explored field – ballet dancers shoes. The classical ballet pointe shoes are particularly interesting as require special customization (each dancer has unique feet) and it require minutious manufacturing process that integrates various materials and components glued and manufacturing process that integrates various materials and components glued and stitched together to provide best fit and structure to enable dancers to dance on the tips of their toes.
The beauty of Hadar Neeman’s P-rouette is her alternative approach to classical ballet pointe shoe manufacture. That’s an innovative approach, as it integrates functionality, esthetics, sustainability in the design process. Using 3D scanning with a mobile app to respond to wearer needs it provides the option of customizing the shape of the shoe and its hardness. Then through the 3D printing process using elastomeric polymer that provides a lightweight and shock-absorbing structure, various materials can be integrated in the production process in order to provide confort, reduce pain and deliver a durable solution for ballet dancers. The finishing also looks modern and flawless, suitable for new millenium ballet dancers. Hope to see it implemented & developed for large scale production.
Definitely Rad Hourani is an exceptional presence on contemporary fashion scene. The French-Canadian designer clearly traced his own path from the very beginning. Opting for the minimal approach, he was strongly determined to redefine the ‘neutral’ look in fashion – genderless, raceless, ageless, limitless. Preoccupied by aesthetic beyond fashion, perfecting his creative expression during the years – paying great attention to every detail, calibrating proportions and shapes, Hourani coined the concept of unisex couture.
Rad Hourani’s Red collection presented at DHC/ART Foundation for Contemporary Art, deserves a closer look. The effect of this stunning red in conjuction with Hourani’s signature architectural garment construction is literally breathtaking.
ART BY ADRIANA VAREJÃO / IMAGINE BRAZIL EXHIBITION CURATED BY HANS-ULRICH OBRIST + CHERYL SIM AT DHC/ART
MODELS CAMILLE + SOPHIA + JEEHYE + RICHARD PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRENT GOLDSMITH – STYLE SASHA WELLS – MAKEUP PATRICK RAHMÉ – HAIR JASON WILLIAMS
BEN COTTRELL AND MATTHEW DAINTY, COLLECTIVELY KNOW AS COTTWEILER, ARE CONCEPT LED DESIGNERS WHO RESPOND INSTINCTIVELY TO THEIR SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT. FORWARD THINKING DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING IS COMBINED WITH AN ASPIRATIONAL QUALITY TO FORM A RELEVANT, MENSWEAR LABEL.
IN ADDITION TO PRODUCING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS STOCKED WORLDWIDE, COTTWEILER PRODUCE FILMS AND INSTALLATIONS, WHICH HAVE BEEN SHOWCASED AT THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS, LONDON, HAUS DER KUNST, MUNICH AND ALISON JACQUES GALLERY, LONDON.
Primarily, Cottweiler caught my attention through their innovative approach to athletic gear. Since sportswear became a major orientation in fashionable streetwear of the moment, there is a constant need to redefine it. Design duo Matt Dainty and Ben Cottrell definitely know how to do that. Throughout seasons, with every new Cottweiler collection, their style becomes more and more refined, achieving a luxurious touch.
I appreciate their taste for art installations instead the traditional catwalk shows, their interest for technical vs. natural fabrics, their carefully constructed details and stunning fashion silhouettes. Cotweiler’s Fall 15 menswear collection, shown at Alison Jacques Gallery, London, mixing the sport casual vibe with stylish and weird display (see pictures), deserves a special consideration. A smart combination of sport elements, workwear style, sophisticated details and hi-tech fabrics, I guess this is what should be labeled as “modern sportswear”. While workwear inspiration always proved to be a successful formula (from jeans and Doc Martens to aprons and overalls), Cottweiler leads it to another level – look at those white boots, amazing!