Cottweiler

BEN COTTRELL AND MATTHEW DAINTY, COLLECTIVELY KNOW AS COTTWEILER, ARE CONCEPT LED DESIGNERS WHO RESPOND INSTINCTIVELY TO THEIR SOCIAL ENVIRONMENT. FORWARD THINKING DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING IS COMBINED WITH AN ASPIRATIONAL QUALITY TO FORM A RELEVANT, MENSWEAR LABEL.

IN ADDITION TO PRODUCING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS STOCKED WORLDWIDE, COTTWEILER PRODUCE FILMS AND INSTALLATIONS, WHICH HAVE BEEN SHOWCASED AT THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ARTS, LONDON, HAUS DER KUNST, MUNICH AND ALISON JACQUES GALLERY, LONDON.

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Primarily, Cottweiler caught my attention through their innovative approach to athletic gear. Since sportswear became a major orientation in fashionable streetwear of the moment, there is a constant need to redefine it. Design duo Matt Dainty and Ben Cottrell definitely know how to do that. Throughout seasons, with every new Cottweiler collection, their style becomes more and more refined, achieving a luxurious touch.

I appreciate their taste for art installations instead the traditional catwalk shows, their interest for technical vs. natural fabrics, their carefully constructed details and stunning fashion silhouettes. Cotweiler’s Fall 15 menswear collection, shown at Alison Jacques Gallery, London, mixing the sport casual vibe with stylish and weird display (see pictures), deserves a special consideration. A smart combination of sport elements, workwear style, sophisticated details and hi-tech fabrics, I guess this is what should be labeled as “modern sportswear”. While workwear inspiration always proved to be a successful formula (from jeans and Doc Martens to aprons and overalls), Cottweiler leads it to another level – look at those white boots, amazing!

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images via showstudio.com

Trending Oversized Styles

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The cover shoot for i-D mag Spring 2015 (‘The Activist Issue‘) featuring various brands like Martine Rose, Rick Owens, Vetements, Nike, Supreme or Marc by Marc Jacobs, puts together loose jackets, hoodies, oversized jogging pants, sporty tops and sneakers in order to achieve a sophisticated silhouette evolving beyond activewear in some kind of urban-contemporary-charming-Vetement(s)esque style.

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i-D Magazine, Spring 2015 fashion editorial

Photo: Willy Vanderperre / Fashion Director: Alastair McKimm / Hair: Duffy / Make-up: Lynsey Alexander / Nail technician: Charlene Coguard / Model: Natalie Westling (The Society) / images via i-d.vice.com

Would you wear these pants?

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Duckie Brown new menswear collection recently displayed at NYFW, proved once again that American design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver are really daring. I mean, to built an entire menswear collection around the idea of oversized pants folded around the waist in order to fit a normal guy silhouette, to introduce luxurious silks and match them with those colored Eastland shoes – that’s truly adventurous. And uber cool. What about the sheer tops and the infamous electric yellow suit?

Aesthetically, the pieces are gorgeous and the silhouettes have a very particular charm. But after all, are the male customers prepared for such a surprise? It seems that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver decided to assume the risk. In my opinion that’s what any creative designer should do from time to time. I love these pants anyway!

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Alternative Presentation NYFW Menswear – Public School

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Any new initiative is greeted at first with a certain suspicion. Likewise, it was some buzz around the idea of a NYFW designed especially for MEN. Taking into consideration the iconic American brands plus the multitude of new upcoming designers, New York definitly has something to say in menswear. It has a powerful identity standing out in the field through minimalistic and functional approach, a welcomed alternative to London, Paris or Milan Fashion Weeks.

Alternative too was Public School’s presentation during New York Menswear Fashion Week. They skipped the usual runway in favour of a kind of performance imitating the police line up. Models and real people (including favorite ‘suspects’ as Nick Wooster or Waris Ahluwalia)  were put into glass boxes, an idea that perfectly fit to display Public School’s SS 2016 collection. Keeping it simple in black, white and navy blue, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne payed their tribute to American menswear. With subtle grid prints, silky bomber jachets, shorts, sporty caps,  long vests paired with Generic Man sneakers –  the collection is flawless.

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Before Performance – fashion editorial in FHM China, Spring Summer 2015 issue
Photo: Damien Blottiere/ Styling: Stormy + Misericordia/ Hair styling: Yoann Fernandez/ Make-up: Yann Boussand Larcher
Models: Matthjs de Block, Lucas Mikulski, Adrien Dantou, Al Pierce & Iasonas Laios/ images via beforeyoukillusall

Craig Green’s Art Installations

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Usually Craig Green’s fashion shows delight the audience through designer’s signature mix of art installations and ready to wear outfits. His new Spring 2016 menswear collection makes no exception. The clothes designed in sparkling colors, with all the quilted and laced details, spread good vibes as for a perfectly summery mood. I guess the proper craftsmanship combined with the lightness and looseness of the outfits is one of the most important assets of Craig Green menswear.
In terms of installations, I particularly liked the minimalist approach in this collection. With the skeleton hidden inside, cleansed from additional details, the black/red/white color blocks look really powerful. Merely flat as canvases, these giant installations are endowed with a more subtle spatiality – the slits and round cutouts look as accurate and concise as Lucio Fontana’s artworks.

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Craig Green Spring 2016 Menswear/ images via style.com