The cover shoot for i-D mag Spring 2015 (‘The Activist Issue‘) featuring various brands like Martine Rose, Rick Owens, Vetements, Nike, Supreme or Marc by Marc Jacobs, puts together loose jackets, hoodies, oversized jogging pants, sporty tops and sneakers in order to achieve a sophisticated silhouette evolving beyond activewear in some kind of urban-contemporary-charming-Vetement(s)esque style.
i-D Magazine, Spring 2015 fashion editorial
Photo: Willy Vanderperre / Fashion Director: Alastair McKimm / Hair: Duffy / Make-up: Lynsey Alexander / Nail technician: Charlene Coguard / Model: Natalie Westling (The Society) / images via i-d.vice.com
By launching their new online platform BoF Education, businessoffashion.com also unveiled the BoF Global Fashion School Rankings of the top 21 undergraduate and 10 graduate fashion programmes around the world. The rankings (updated for 2015) are based on rigorous analysis:
“The ranking is based on a rigorous methodology incorporating 60 different data points gathered directly from a shortlist of 24 top fashion institutions, surveys completed by 4,032 students and recent alumni, feedback from 88 HR professionals and global fashion influencers and our own BoF analysis of 21 undergraduate and 10 graduate programmes around the world.”
Each programme was evaluated on three key dimensions: Global Influence, Learning Experience and Long-term Value. While the last decade saw a growing popularity of fashion design studies and the rise of many famous fashion schools striving for supremacy in the field, BoF articles & research concerning different aspects of fashion education related to the streams in the industry become truly relevant.
Duckie Brown new menswear collection recently displayed at NYFW, proved once again that American design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver are really daring. I mean, to built an entire menswear collection around the idea of oversized pants folded around the waist in order to fit a normal guy silhouette, to introduce luxurious silks and match them with those colored Eastland shoes – that’s truly adventurous. And uber cool. What about the sheer tops and the infamous electric yellow suit?
Aesthetically, the pieces are gorgeous and the silhouettes have a very particular charm. But after all, are the male customers prepared for such a surprise? It seems that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver decided to assume the risk. In my opinion that’s what any creative designer should do from time to time. I love these pants anyway!
Lately, the possible connections that could be traced between fashion and art became the subject of quite interesting discussions. Whether fashion could be linked to the world of arts or whether art could play a fashion role – these questions remain opened for further explorations. On the other hand, we have to admit that we are dealing with two different things that don’t need to be forced to work together. At least not literally, like we saw in Viktor & Rolf demonstration for their last couture show.
In my opinion, the topic deserves a lighter treatment. That is why I picked James Merry’s work for example. His cute embroideries on vintage sweaters and his very personal way to adorn all those iconic sportswear logos with flowers, moss or mushrooms, seems to be a more adequate formula – smart, sincere, clean, honest… and wearable after all! The concept definitely deserves to be developed further while it could be extended at various levels.
James Merry, a very particular artist who spends his life between New York and Iceland, is already known as the creator of exquisite embroidered masks for Bjork’s stage shows or videos. James Merry is also a former collaborator of Damien Hirst and the author of an illustration book. His recent sportswear logo project (see the pictures) shows that he still has plenty to say, whether it would be in the field of art, fashion or something in between.
SHOWSPACE, the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition presented by Live Archives, uncovers this week (31 July – 8 August) a selection of over 60 exceptional Yamamoto pieces. Jeffery Horsley, the curator, gathers together pieces from different collections and lines of the Japanese designer, in order to deliver a live show instead the normal fashion exhibition experience. Garments are displayed on live models and visitors are allowed to touch or try-on the clothes. I guess this is a proper take on the work of a fashion designer, especially when we’re talking about Yamamoto. Some of the pieces on show are also available for sale.
31 JULY-8 AUGUST 13.00-19.00 DAILY
Live Archives present
Yohji Yamamoto: SHOWSPACE,
an exhibition of work by celebrated Japanese-born fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto exhibited on live models, with a selection of specially sourced items for sale.
LIVE ARCHIVES, 81 MARE STREET, LONDON E8 4RG
Any new initiative is greeted at first with a certain suspicion. Likewise, it was some buzz around the idea of a NYFW designed especially for MEN. Taking into consideration the iconic American brands plus the multitude of new upcoming designers, New York definitly has something to say in menswear. It has a powerful identity standing out in the field through minimalistic and functional approach, a welcomed alternative to London, Paris or Milan Fashion Weeks.
Alternative too was Public School’s presentation during New York Menswear Fashion Week. They skipped the usual runway in favour of a kind of performance imitating the police line up. Models and real people (including favorite ‘suspects’ as Nick Wooster or Waris Ahluwalia) were put into glass boxes, an idea that perfectly fit to display Public School’s SS 2016 collection. Keeping it simple in black, white and navy blue, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne payed their tribute to American menswear. With subtle grid prints, silky bomber jachets, shorts, sporty caps, long vests paired with Generic Man sneakers - the collection is flawless.