Duckie Brown new menswear collection recently displayed at NYFW, proved once again that American design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver are really daring. I mean, to built an entire menswear collection around the idea of oversized pants folded around the waist in order to fit a normal guy silhouette, to introduce luxurious silks and match them with those colored Eastland shoes – that’s truly adventurous. And uber cool. What about the sheer tops and the infamous electric yellow suit?
Aesthetically, the pieces are gorgeous and the silhouettes have a very particular charm. But after all, are the male customers prepared for such a surprise? It seems that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver decided to assume the risk. In my opinion that’s what any creative designer should do from time to time. I love these pants anyway!
Any new initiative is greeted at first with a certain suspicion. Likewise, it was some buzz around the idea of a NYFW designed especially for MEN. Taking into consideration the iconic American brands plus the multitude of new upcoming designers, New York definitly has something to say in menswear. It has a powerful identity standing out in the field through minimalistic and functional approach, a welcomed alternative to London, Paris or Milan Fashion Weeks.
Alternative too was Public School’s presentation during New York Menswear Fashion Week. They skipped the usual runway in favour of a kind of performance imitating the police line up. Models and real people (including favorite ‘suspects’ as Nick Wooster or Waris Ahluwalia) were put into glass boxes, an idea that perfectly fit to display Public School’s SS 2016 collection. Keeping it simple in black, white and navy blue, designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne payed their tribute to American menswear. With subtle grid prints, silky bomber jachets, shorts, sporty caps, long vests paired with Generic Man sneakers – the collection is flawless.
With the recent Rag & Bone Menswear campaign, it appears that we stay in the field of dance. The Rag & Bone Men Fall 2015 campaign is outstanding in many aspects: it features really nice outfits (lots of shirts, parkas and draped knits), everything is finished with a perfect styling, the casting is remarkable and unexpected for a fashion campaign. Think Lil Buck or Mikhail Baryshnikov!
Rag & Bone also released a short video featuring Buck and Baryshnikov (worth to see it!). Inspired by dancing and streetstyle, the entire collection is very dynamic, playing a lot with body movements and the power of expression through clothes. Once again, Mikhail Baryshnikov – 67 years old, is absolutely fabulous.
TOGA‘s Fall 2014 collection entitled “Crudity, Durability, Roughness” explores the American West in a very peculiar way. There’s a lot of buzz around Americana style lately, but fortunately there are also plenty of creative resources to be found in designers’ collections. Especially when we’re talking about Japan versus America (via Europe) the result might be even more interesting.
Japanese designer Yasuko Furata graduated from Esmod in Paris before going on to work as a freelance costume maker. She launched her label Toga back in 1997. In 2004, TOGA opened its first boutique in the Ebisu district of Tokyo. Today, TOGA has over 30 shops all around the world. Distinguished by its exclusive fabrics research and experimental volumes, the Toga silhouette is urban, deconstructed and avant-garde. Defining her design as “Toughness and unique sexiness, hidden in elegance that uses complex female images to evoke all the senses” Yasuko likes contradictions “such as the combination of conflicting materials, interpretation of classic elements into casual styles, and the elegant presentation of sportswear elements.”
Indeed, these pieces are beautiful and provoking in terms of silhouettes, fabrics and associations, resulting in an efortless chic layerings of apparently contrastant elements. Addresing to a free-minded, contemporary, global woman, TOGA is a a label that certainly deserves un certain regard.
Franco-Portuguese artist and architect Didier Faustino is already renowned for his intriguing projects which debate alternative relationships between body and architecture. Founder of Bureau des Mésarchitectures, Didier Faustino is the author of Doppelganger, Sky is the Limit, (G)HOST IN THE (S)HELL, We Can’t Go Home Again to name just a few projects.
His latest art project displays a personal interaction with a particular space – Villa Bloc (designed by French sculptor André Bloc in the 50s). At Villa Bloc Didier Faustino has implemented a semi-architectural installation entitled ‘This Is Not a Love Song’. I love both red explosive entrance and the light arrows-installation placed inside. And especially the way these landmarks interact with the whole environment.
Didier Faustino installation at Villa Bloc Paris/ photos: Felipe Ribon/ images via designboom.com
Hello Kitty Style– an editorial featured in the December issue of Vogue Japan. Photo: Tibi Clenci/ Styling: Rena Semba / Fashion editor – Mayumi Nakamura/ Model Ai Tominaga/ images via fashiongonerogue.com