It seems that the wires and the optical illusions from Kane’s previous collections (Women RST and Men Spring 2014) have evolved into another phase. Some dresses displayed in Christopher Kane Fall 2014 show bring out surprising 3D constructions. Desirable, wearable, perfectly designed for girls with flat silhouettes.
Christopher Kane, Fall 2014 collection/ images via style.com
Satu Maaranen, S/S 2014 – Garment in Landscape, photo: Chris Vidal Tenomaa
Satu Maaranen, a Helsinki based designer, graduated in 2012 from Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture. Her MA graduate collection won first prize at the prestigious Hyères Fashion Festival 2013 by unanimous decision. It’s no wonder!
Firstly, Garment in Landscape is definitely that kind of concept simply impossible to ignore in the context of superficial, fast-forward fashion trends. Secondly, the sculptural forms and amazing details (hats, gloves, bows) bring back into fashion the almost lost appetite for couture pieces. Finally, the innovative fabrics are entirely worked by the designer, covering silk, cotton and viscose with sand, sawdust, water and grass effects.
Satu Maaranen’s collection (shown everywhere, from Hyeres to Premiere Vision Paris and Berlin Fashion Week) is not only artsy, fashionable, innovative etc., but it is significant as a personal statement in the realm of contemporary fashion design. Being into the fashion and beyond it, at the same time, it’s the ultimate challenge for every designer.
If I have to name one designer able to entirely redefine the male fashion silhouette, that would definitely be J.W.Anderson. The revolution in womenswear started a long time ago with borrowing elements of man’s attire. What J.W.Andersons demonstrates with each collection is that a true revolution in menswear is possible by doing the reverse – picking certain pieces from the woman’s wardrobe and converting them to menswear. The fact that such a translation is possible without losing “masculinity”, it’s due to designer’s talent and smart solutions. Introducing column-like silhouettes, he stays in his favorite goemetric zone, yet delivering a poetic, twisted discourse. The outfits – neoprene tunics, relaxed high-waisted trousers, scarf-tops, are spiced up with surprising details: front oversized pockets, armbands, assymetric cuts. While most of the forms recall elements from Anderson’s previous collections (especially his women’s Fall 2013 collection), they become reinforced as being part of his fashion vocabulary and signature design.
Sweet Pea – editorial in July 2013 issue of Vogue Russia/ Photographer: Emma Tempest/ Styling: Camilla Pole/ Hair-styling: Halley Brisker/ Make up: Lotten Holmqvist/ Model: Ji Hye Park/ images via fashiongonerogue.com
Balenciaga golden metal headband from S/S 2013 collection/ images via vogue.com
The Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2013 Collection delivers, as we could expect, some of MMM’s classic motifs – the masculine tailoring inspiration, the deconstruction, the oversize outfits, the front/back interplay, the trompe l oeil effects etc., everything packed in a smart ready-to-wear formula. Maybe that’s not exactly my favorite Margiela creative manifesto, but I can’t ignore all those powerful details (the statement accessories, the brushstrokes on the clothes, the plexi heel boots).
As far as I’m concerned, to be honest, the concept of hairstyle embedded in the costume is the best part of this collection.
images source: fashionising.com
Building a Mystery – in Commons & Sense magazine/ photographer: Paul Schmidt/ styling: Shino Itoi/ model: Tamy Glauser.
The androgynous beauty reminds me of Sinead O’Connor in the early 90s… these black & white pics are old and new, cool and amazing.
images via fashiongonerogue.com
