If I have to name one designer able to entirely redefine the male fashion silhouette, that would definitely be J.W.Anderson. The revolution in womenswear started a long time ago with borrowing elements of man’s attire. What J.W.Andersons demonstrates with each collection is that a true revolution in menswear is possible by doing the reverse – picking certain pieces from the woman’s wardrobe and converting them to menswear. The fact that such a translation is possible without losing “masculinity”, it’s due to designer’s talent and smart solutions. Introducing column-like silhouettes, he stays in his favorite goemetric zone, yet delivering a poetic, twisted discourse. The outfits – neoprene tunics, relaxed high-waisted trousers, scarf-tops, are spiced up with surprising details: front oversized pockets, armbands, assymetric cuts. While most of the forms recall elements from Anderson’s previous collections (especially his women’s Fall 2013 collection), they become reinforced as being part of his fashion vocabulary and signature design.
Recently, the menswear fashion scene became quite exciting, in fact, much more creative than womenswear. I mean you can always find something fresh and new out there. That’s why I’ve decided to write about four of my favorite Fall collections for Men, relevant enough for what’s going on in this fashion sector.
Craig Green is leading the section of “new talents”, delivering a personal view on menswear. Part of designer’s concerns on contemporary wardrobe and lifestyle, the wooden headpieces were perfect to spice up the show. We can spot there his sculptural approach, organic look with raw edges, simple cuts for loose silhouettes. Nomadic lifestyle is surely Green’s favorite theme, shaping his work as a promissing designer. I really appreciate his take on menswear, but, after all, I guess his work is beyond masculinity, it’s about a new age of humanity.
Meadham Kirchhoff open their Fall 2013 Men Collection with a performance. Taking further the outwear/homewear concept from their S/S 2013 Men collection, the beloved fashion duo put it more radical and summarise “throwing away the shit of last year”. The models wore interesting outfits and charming accessories, while the set design was stuffed with garbage bags, fragrance, scrap furniture and burnt candels. At Meadham Kirchhoff, I love the romantism and the freshness of the mood and the way they try to redefine men’s experience with the ritual of dressing up.
I’m sure that J.W.Anderson‘s men catwalk show for Fall 2013 was the most intriguing of the whole season. Not just intriguing, but also smart and charming. The designer plays around the gender theme (as Gaultier did once, but in a much more subtle way). The beautiful&strange outfits resulted are androgynous avoiding to be a synthesis (which sometimes means neuter, asexual) but generating creative hybrids (that brings something fresh and new). Just look at the bustier with pockets and the noeprene shorts with those frills!
Thome Browne infused the male outfits in his fall 2013 show with theatricality. The male suit was often compared with a perfect box designed for urban life. But what happens if we try to convert everything in men’s wardrobe to boxes and cubes? Thom Browne spreads the angular lines from hats and glasses, to jackets and trousers, checkered fabrics, shaping a collection that recalls the dystopian old SF movie imagery. But the experiment is funny too, really challenging and highly creative.
images via thefashionisto.com, the-conway.com, fashionising.com