Tze Goh is a designer whose (quality of) work is hard to ignore. It wouldn’t be appropriate to call him just “minimal”. His singular design esthetics is merely pure and somehow sensual. Clean surfaces, flawless look, light structure, sculptural functionality, innovative materials – it’s not easy to get so many qualities together in a single garment, huh? That’s pretty close to perfection. Tze Goh’s dresses are from another world.
I strongly believe in the new generation of fashion designers that rock the world’s catwalks, refreshing the landscape, proposing different stories, avoiding the usually remakes. And Marios Schwab is one that we should keep an eye on. I mean, his designs are always intriguing, in terms of concept and appearance. Remember his Fall 2009 3D collection? that was a great attempt, and he succeeded!
Marios Schwab studied fashion at Esmod Berlin , he took a MA at Saint Martins, and launched his own label in 2005. Schwab won the prize for Best New Designer at the British Fashion Awards in 2006; in 2009 he was appointed Creative Director at Halston.
His recent collections have explored various themes, such as the historical costume, lingerie, rethinking the form of traditional dress, playing with tricky surfaces etc. Definitely, his fashion is always doubled with an intellectual investigation – all his collections are meticulously built, piece by piece. Schwab’s designs are sometimes “risky” and experimental, but still appealing and feminine. His design aesthetic successfully match the technological innovation with traditional craftsmanship.
Regarding Marios Schwab SS 2012 collection, there are beautiful patterns and smart cuts, a lot of transparent layers and unexpected style associations. Not to mention the gorgeous swimsuit – perfectly crisscrossed and cutout! It’s all so sharp and brilliant, I couldn’t help but write about it. I hope you’ll enjoy it, too.
images via vogue.com
I’m usually not so enthusiastic about the beige and nude tones on clothes. It’s not because I don’t like them, it’s just the simple fact that nowadays, they’re literally suffocating the fashion world. It’s like – “u don’t have any inspiration, u don’t know what color you should use for that? Just try some beige- it’s easy and it always works!” That’s why I’m not interested in it, because it lacks originality, because it’s already too much and I’m just sick of it. I’ve decided to not tolerate the nude as fashion statement only if it has some serious support, as it does in Margiela’s work.
What about the Calvin Klein Collection? The subtle, elegant, smartly designed pieces from their Spring/ Summer 2012 collection? Also here, the nude has a strong design background. Calvin Klein pioneered the concept of invisible underwear (remember the laser cut, seamless finishing?) – they’re quite revolutionary at this point. Not to mention their recent Naked Glamour lingerie campaign, featuring Lara Stone + Patrick Demarchelier. Their clothing line is always focused on genuine design, clean cuts and a lot o wear-ability. Actually, this design concept is 100% American. But, in addition, the new Spring/Summer Calvin Klein Collection gives it a subtle romantic mood, just opportune to transform the outfits in perfectly marketable products. In Calvin Klein’s terms, the beige really makes sense – it’s about designing the basics, it’s about imaging the contemporary wardrobe as a light extension of the skin.
images via vogue.com
As I’m a big fan of Yohji Yamamoto’s designs, his line with Adidas is one of the most awaited at the NY Fashion Week. This time he designed the pieces thinking of the next Olympic games in London, but except of the checkered/tartan fabrics, this looks like a regular Y-3 Collection – black with a few color details, beautifully draped, and just ready-to-wear. Here are some of my favorite outfits :
images via style.com
I’ve never doubt Stella McCartney’s talent, but some of her looks are still surprising me. As does this wonderful, bold, perfect dress from her Fall 2011 Collection.
images via vogue.com
I’m sure that everybody remembers Hussein Chalayan’s stunning “Inertia” collection (spring/summer 2009). The collaboration between the designer and Puma, reveals a bright continuity for Chalayan’s futuristic idea.
Puma’s fall/winter 2011 collection contains several pieces grouped under the banner ‘urban swift’. I think Chalayan’s collaboration with Puma is a fruitful one, and the extraordinary fact behind it is that the visionary designs of the maestro finally can reach the mass market. This time, the concept of urban mobility is translated into these wonderful products, and the Urban Swift incorporates a distinct element of speed and grace through a 3D series of spikes on the heel. I’d really like a white pair!
chekout urbanmobilty
images via bpuma.com, designboom.com
The Australian designer, now based in Reykjavik – Sruli Recht, is already famous for his particular fashion projects and his passion for the so-called “non-products”:
” ‘Non-Products’ – A specially made low run piece, either hand tooled or machine made, that would lose its context as a mass produced item, and is not viable to produce in large quantities. And/or An item that is in concept stage as a byproduct of the previous. ”
Sruli Recht definitely likes to experiment. Being equally interested in fashion and custom-tailoring, industrial design and illustration, he is, by all means, creative (till he reaches controversy). After the designer showed over the years some sensational projects like his Umbuster, the Bulletprouf HandKerchief etc., here he comes with some special items in his SS 2011 Collection – “Cast By Shadows”.
I’m talking about the limited-edition objects that he developed for the visually impaired – the white cane and the white glasses. The white larch cane is bleached in the sun, hand-carved and tipped with rubber. The eyeshade frames are made of hand-carved cherry wood, while the lenses are hand-cut in Carrara marble. Both of them are limited edition- 5 pieces per each item.
Special indeed, I love projects like this. Because fashion should move further & go beyond.
images via dezeen.com
