Archive for decembrie 2011

La multi ani!

Sophia de Romania

M-am intrebat mereu daca moda este (sau ar trebui să fie) in primul rand legata de design sau este mai degraba o chestiune de stil. Desigur, multi fashion designeri opereaza la nivel stilistic, fiind preocupaţi  sa redefineasca siluete, atitudini, sau sa surprinda o atmosfera la moda. Altii, mai cerebrali, încearcă să modeleze corpul prin intermediul obiectelor de design; unii, mai subversivi, sa deconstruiasca obiceiurile si automatismele nostre vizavi de imbracare. Insa, la urma urmei, moda este un mediu imbibat de poveşti, si doar abordarea designerului estea cea care face diferenţa. Moda poate functiona ca demers figurativ sau abstract, fiind in acelasi timp o chestiune de gust sau de stil, o provocare tehnica sau un exercitiu intelectual.

Asadar, in moda, ca oriunde de altfel, este important sa ai ceva de spus. In ceea ce o priveste pe Laura Vargalui, ea se pricepe la haine si la povesti. Cu noul ei brand, Sophia de Romania, Laura Vargalui isi foloseste la maxim experienta stilistica impreuna cu talentul de „modista”. Ea ştie să puna in scena o colectie, si o face intr-o maniera inedita. Apreciem carisma personajului („croitoreasa casei regale a spiritului”), culoarea, creativitatea, entuziasmul si mi-se-rup-ismul abordarii.

Am publicat aici cateva imagini din lookbook-ul colectiei si din prezentare – o nebunie luxurianta si un eclectism savuros, compus din motive exotice si locale, imprimeuri, flori, fete de masa şi carpete . Cu Sophia De Romania, Laura se adreseaza femeilor emancipate, celor care simt nevoia să dezvaluie regina din ele. Desigur, aceasta nu e o colectie pentru toata lumea, ci doar pentru femeile cu atitudine, fantezie, si cu umor. Adica for the happy few.

imagini: Sophia De Romania/ designer: Laura Vargalui/ fotografii: Corina Olaru/
modele: Ana Maria Gheorghe,Ada Musat,Maria Mora,Paul Dunca/ make-up: Nicoleta Timus/ hair: Geta Voinea;
assistent hair:Alex Bratu/ accessorii: Cosima Opartan.

 

Sarbatorindu-l pe Alaïa

Groniger Museum este un muzeu de arta contemporana, construit pe apa Canalului Verbindings din Groningen, un oraş în nordul Olandei. Şi acum, Muzeul Groniger gazduieste cea de- a doua restrospectiva dedicata lui Azzedine Alaïa, o expozitie deschisa publicului intre 11 decembrie 2011 si 6 mai 2012. Motivatia acestei expozitii a fost rezumata simplu si la obiect de insasi curatorul ei, Mark Wilson – “Azzedine is one of the last great couturiers working today—I honestly felt I had no choice but to do a second exhibition.”

Expozitia, intitulată “Azzedine Alaïa in the 21st Century”, etaleaza creatii reprezentative ale ultimilor zece ani din cariera designerului. Nu mai e nevoie să subliniem contribuţia majora pe care Alaïa a adus-o evolutiei modei contemporane … rochiile stretch, linia cautata, costumele sculpturale, suprafeţele fără cusur. El va ramane intotdeauna unul din creatorii- reper (fiind probabil ultimul couturier încă activ), şi o pasăre rară în peisajul modei contemporane, nu numai pentru pasiunea autentica şi perfecţionismul la care nu a renuntat niciodata, dar şi pentru atitudinea sa personală vizavi de Moda. Izolat in atelierul sau din Marais, Alaïa a ales sa stea departe de sistemul modei, sa se sustraga miscarii globale care e una de tipul fast forward – e vorba pana la urma despre înţelepciunea şi modestia unui adevărat creator. Opera lui Alaïa este opera unui artist, totul se rezuma la căutare, re-definirea formei, experimentarea cu materialele, o permanenta explorare a acelei relaţii intime si primordiale, care este cea dintre vestimentatie şi corpul femeii.

Oricum, ceea ce am vrut să spun aici este că această expoziţie prezintă nu numai o suita de haine frumoase, dar si cea mai importantă realizare a unui designer de talia lui Azzedine Alaïa- acea simplitate dezarmanta, care-l plaseaza dincolo de trivialitatile modi, undeva in atemporal.

Colivia

Shooting StarTush, #26 / Fotograf: Armin Morbach / Fashion Editor/Stylist: Ingo Nahrwold /

Hair Stylist : Teiji Utsumi / Makeup Artist: Loni Baur / Model: Antonia Wesseloh

 

Kobi Levi – Interviu

… frumos, nebun, creativ, ciudat, amuzant, special. Nu ştiu, este destul de greu sa-l incadrezi pe Kobi Levi, într-un anume gen sau intr-o anumită categorie estetică. Recunosc, pe mine ma incita cel mai mult lucrurile care reuşesc să scape clasificarilor obisnuite.

Miscandu-se undeva la limita dintre moda, arta, design, mestesug si avant-garda, piesele create de Kobi Levi sunt, in orice caz, greu de ignorat. „Cizmele duble” au devenit faimoase dupa ce au fost purtate de Lady Gaga in „Born This Way”, dar există o mulţime de alte lucruri interesante si surprinzătoare pentru care trebuie să-l apreciem pe acest designer israelian! Cui i-ar fi trecut prin cap sa inventeze un pantof in forma de banana sau de lebada, sau un toc inspirat de o guma de mestecat lipita de asfalt? Dar sa realizeze toate aceste piese una cate una, manual, pentru a obtine un produs modern, viu, firesc, purtabil? Kobi Levi a absolvit Academia de Arte & Design Bezalel, din Ierusalim. El si-a construit deja o cariera ca designer independent, confectionandu-si manual fiecare dintre senzationalele sale perechi de pantofi. Kobi locuieste în Tel-Aviv , si as fi foarte curiosa sa arunc o privire in atelierul lui!

Oricum, am fost încântata să-i pun cateva întrebari legate de proiectele sale, iar el a avut amabilitatea de a vorbi cu Fashion Salad despre asta :

 

You’re a talented fashion designer. Is there a certain reason for choosing shoes as a creative ground?

Shoes are my „design language”, my form of self-expression. Unlike other forms of art or design where the creation is placed on display and stays there, shoes can come to life when they are worn on the feet. With shoe-design it’s possible to create another organ which relates to the body. You can actually transform the appearance without changing the basic shape of the body. I think this is also the reason that people from all ages and places love shoes. They are easy to relate to.

What’s the most important feature of a well-made shoe?

A good construction, which supports the feet, is very important. Of course personally I prefer an interesting design as well.

Your pieces are entirely handmade. This sounds really eccentric nowadays. It’s similar with the concept of „couture”. Do you want to preserve this method or are you already searching for alternatives?

There are many advantages for hand-made products. Sure there is a lot of work involved and this makes the shoes more expensive. But, on the other hand, they are unique, tailor-made and you feel like they were created especially for you.
In the near future I will continue with producing hand-made pairs only. Maybe later on I will look for large-scale production solutions.

You already defined your way as a designer. I appreciate the concept, but mostly I’m amazed by the color, humor and the soul of your work. Your shoes are pretty “alive”- is this the core of your design?

Yes! It’s really important to me that the shoes communicate with the viewer/wearer. It’s great to see that they attract people from all ages and cultures. A while ago a friend told me about his 18 month old daughter, who recognized the Toucan style and laughed out loud. This gives me great satisfaction.

Do you care about fashion trends? I can see your inspiration comes from elsewhere, not from the world of shoe design…

My designs are not affected or inspired by trends. There are endless sources of inspiration in the world. Why should I limit myself in any way?

Do you have any favorite fashion designers? ( apart from the world of shoes?)

Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen.

You define your shoes both as objects/sculptures and wearables. How important is the Body?

Of course it’s important. We all have it, right?
As I explained before, a shoe can become a designed extension of the body, but it can’t replace it or cover it.

Who wears you shoes? Or who would you like to wear them?

My costumers are people who appreciate the unique design and have a good sense of humor. You can’t be too serious if you wear banana-shaped slippers….
Honestly I would like to sell the designs at retails shops everywhere. But at this time the cost is high and that is not possible.

How do you see your projects in a world ruled by fast-fashion and mass-serialization? What do you think about the emerging technologies? Are you interested in rapid-prototyping?

Mass production has great benefits. However, when you see the same mega-chain stores everywhere you go, some people become bored and look for something fresh and new. In this respect there are great advantages for production on small scale.
Technology can serve the production process and simplify it and that is great. As I said, it would be nice to bring fun designs to every household. But we are a long way from that point. Shoe making is a complicated process and many things still have to be made by hand.

How do you see the future of fashion?

Fashion is all about re-inventing trends. In this respect it is not very eco-friendly, because you always have to throw away the old to make room for the new. I prefer to value things due to their originality and quality and not due to the logo on them. For me creation is more interesting then fashion.


mai multe imagini gasiti pe blogul designerului.

 

Chanel. Operatiunea Paris-Bombay

Chanel Pre – Fall 2012

/ imagine via vogue.com

Vampire Chic

 

Mi Vida Logo

Mi Vida Logo„. Acesta este numele unui editorial recent aparut in Vogue Japonia, sub auspiciile Annei Dello Russo. Stylingul este seducator si dramatic, fiind realizat de insasi Anna (dupa chipul, gustul si asemanarea sa). Puternic, exhibitionist, luxos, ieftin, tentant, picant, siropos, istet, explicit, iconic si un pic cam… comic.