În prezent, cei mai multi designeri comercializeaza pur si simplu imagine. Ceea ce nu este complet gresit, dar cum ramane cu hainele? Totusi, (mai) există designeri preocupati si de demersul creativ ( vechea arta de a face haine). Pentru acestia, moda nu este doar un spatiu al solutiilor glossy , ci este un mediu care le permite să experimenteze cu materialele, pentru ca, mai departe, clientii lor să poata experimenta cu hainele. Barbara i Gongini este un astfel de brand.
Am urmarit traseul brandului danez in ultimele sezoane si am fost impresionata de abordarea lor conceptuală / artistică / nihilista si totusi poetica si gratioasa. Proiectele Barbara i Gongini (niciodata finite, mereu in curs de desfasurare) includ experimente și colaborări fructuoase cu diferiti artisti din muzică, fotografie si film.
Am incercat sa fac o introducere pe Fashion Salad, vorbind cu Barbara, designerul din spatele brandului Barbara i Gongini:
I think your designs are really outstanding on the fashion scene. Where would you place your work between design, style and art?
My opinion about avant garde is that it is everything from art, design and style. They are all linked and there is no separation.
How did Barbara i Gongini start? Could you mention a major catalyst?
In the Faroe Islands, where I am from, there was this fantastic woman that was always dressed for any occasion – very stylish. I saw here one day in her high heels walking the steep hill with shopping bags… I decided at that point – I was about 6 – that creating clothes was my destiny.
You already developed your own dark poetry. Why black?
I work with principles and shape – black is a no color, hence it is a perfect forum for shapes.
Tell me about your creative process. How do you start a new collection? Where’s the big challenge?
I have been working with the square and circle shapes for a very long time. I explore how to twist and twerk the traditional to the unconventional. I do not sketch my designs, I drape on a mannequin and explore from there.
How important is the body?
My clothes are not close fitting, hence the body is where we hang our art:)
You really love to experiment with the fabrics. What are your favorites?
Wool, leather, technical silk, shirtings – awhh…. the list is endless.
Do you follow fashion trends?
No. I follow development.
Where’s the boundary between a poor and a luxurious outfit?
Your own imagination.
Define your ideal customer
A person that gets happy by wearing my clothes, that finds their own personality in my pieces.
What do you think about emerging technologies and fashion?
I think that all developments in ecological and sustainable principles are fantastic and that we should all do our best to take care of the world.
How did the experience of running your own business challenge your designer profile?
There is a clear difference between design and business. In our team we have managed both to maintain our design profile and to maintain a business strategy by dividing the brand into 3 labels: Barbara i Gongini, The Black Line, and Leather and Accessories.
… frumos, nebun, creativ, ciudat, amuzant, special. Nu ştiu, este destul de greu sa-l incadrezi pe Kobi Levi, într-un anume gen sau intr-o anumită categorie estetică. Recunosc, pe mine ma incita cel mai mult lucrurile care reuşesc să scape clasificarilor obisnuite.
Miscandu-se undeva la limita dintre moda, arta, design, mestesug si avant-garda, piesele create de Kobi Levi sunt, in orice caz, greu de ignorat. “Cizmele duble” au devenit faimoase dupa ce au fost purtate de Lady Gaga in “Born This Way”, dar există o mulţime de alte lucruri interesante si surprinzătoare pentru care trebuie să-l apreciem pe acest designer israelian! Cui i-ar fi trecut prin cap sa inventeze un pantof in forma de banana sau de lebada, sau un toc inspirat de o guma de mestecat lipita de asfalt? Dar sa realizeze toate aceste piese una cate una, manual, pentru a obtine un produs modern, viu, firesc, purtabil? Kobi Levi a absolvit Academia de Arte & Design Bezalel, din Ierusalim. El si-a construit deja o cariera ca designer independent, confectionandu-si manual fiecare dintre senzationalele sale perechi de pantofi. Kobi locuieste în Tel-Aviv , si as fi foarte curiosa sa arunc o privire in atelierul lui!
Oricum, am fost încântata să-i pun cateva întrebari legate de proiectele sale, iar el a avut amabilitatea de a vorbi cu Fashion Salad despre asta :
You’re a talented fashion designer. Is there a certain reason for choosing shoes as a creative ground?
Shoes are my “design language”, my form of self-expression. Unlike other forms of art or design where the creation is placed on display and stays there, shoes can come to life when they are worn on the feet. With shoe-design it’s possible to create another organ which relates to the body. You can actually transform the appearance without changing the basic shape of the body. I think this is also the reason that people from all ages and places love shoes. They are easy to relate to.
What’s the most important feature of a well-made shoe?
A good construction, which supports the feet, is very important. Of course personally I prefer an interesting design as well.
Your pieces are entirely handmade. This sounds really eccentric nowadays. It’s similar with the concept of “couture”. Do you want to preserve this method or are you already searching for alternatives?
There are many advantages for hand-made products. Sure there is a lot of work involved and this makes the shoes more expensive. But, on the other hand, they are unique, tailor-made and you feel like they were created especially for you.
In the near future I will continue with producing hand-made pairs only. Maybe later on I will look for large-scale production solutions.
You already defined your way as a designer. I appreciate the concept, but mostly I’m amazed by the color, humor and the soul of your work. Your shoes are pretty “alive”- is this the core of your design?
Yes! It’s really important to me that the shoes communicate with the viewer/wearer. It’s great to see that they attract people from all ages and cultures. A while ago a friend told me about his 18 month old daughter, who recognized the Toucan style and laughed out loud. This gives me great satisfaction.
Do you care about fashion trends? I can see your inspiration comes from elsewhere, not from the world of shoe design…
My designs are not affected or inspired by trends. There are endless sources of inspiration in the world. Why should I limit myself in any way?
Do you have any favorite fashion designers? ( apart from the world of shoes?)
Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen.
You define your shoes both as objects/sculptures and wearables. How important is the Body?
Of course it’s important. We all have it, right?
As I explained before, a shoe can become a designed extension of the body, but it can’t replace it or cover it.
Who wears you shoes? Or who would you like to wear them?
My costumers are people who appreciate the unique design and have a good sense of humor. You can’t be too serious if you wear banana-shaped slippers….
Honestly I would like to sell the designs at retails shops everywhere. But at this time the cost is high and that is not possible.
How do you see your projects in a world ruled by fast-fashion and mass-serialization? What do you think about the emerging technologies? Are you interested in rapid-prototyping?
Mass production has great benefits. However, when you see the same mega-chain stores everywhere you go, some people become bored and look for something fresh and new. In this respect there are great advantages for production on small scale.
Technology can serve the production process and simplify it and that is great. As I said, it would be nice to bring fun designs to every household. But we are a long way from that point. Shoe making is a complicated process and many things still have to be made by hand.
How do you see the future of fashion?
Fashion is all about re-inventing trends. In this respect it is not very eco-friendly, because you always have to throw away the old to make room for the new. I prefer to value things due to their originality and quality and not due to the logo on them. For me creation is more interesting then fashion.
mai multe imagini gasiti pe blogul designerului.