Un designer promitator

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In ultima vreme constat ca discutiile despre moda, tendinte si idealuri absurde ma obosesc si chiar ma plictisesc – prea multa informatie, prea multe fragmente de idei, prea putina substanta. Si totusi, din cand in cand, se iveste ceva cu totul special care ma face sa-mi recapat entuziasmul.

Vanessa Schindler, o proaspata absolventa de design vestimentar, mi-a atras atentia cu  o colectie masculina experimentala. Explorand piese de baza din garderoba masculina (jachete, pulovere, tricouri, pantaloni scurti, pantofi), ea adora sa se joace cu materiale-surpriza si sa redeseneze siluetele cu care ne-am obisnuit.

Purtand un titlu destul de straniu, Oui c’est du Renne du bord de la Route, colectia de licenta a Vanessei Schindler (de la Universitatea de Artă și Design HEAD Geneva, Elveția) ne transpune intr-o lume diferită, guvernata de noi forte, forme alternative și detalii amuzante.

Curioasa sa stiu mai multe despre inspiratia acestei colectii, despre viziunea personala a designerului si planurile ei de viitor, i-am luat Vanessei un scurt interviu:

 

How it all started? 

It started a long time ago when I begun to collect different materials found in my hometown in Switzerland. Supermarket ropes and elastic threads, cow hide, reindeer fur, wood, lycra… This collection became a play between the man’s classical wardrobe and these materials.

The main accessory is a stick of wood painted in yellow. In each silhouette, it disturbs the regular shape of these garments. It runs through them, exaggerates them, lifts them up and stretches them.

To me it was a way to think about fashion. How our eyes get used to abstract ideas. Pushing the boundaries. Seeing how far I could go with the yellow stick. See how we are able, or not, to get use to new shapes on a body. This collection is more a reflection and amusement about menswear. Six masculine totems, masculine sculptures, a men’s collection.

 (Literal translation of the title: „Yes this reindeer was found by the side of the road”)

 

Why menswear?

 I chose menswear because I believe it is more liberated from social stigma, it allows more humor and constructivism around its form. And simply because I wanted to built these men figures.

 

What was your favorite part in the design process?

Maybe when you start visualizing the final result, when you begin to see what it will become, and if the result fits with the idea you had in mind. This moment when you just race to make it become real!

 

How do you feel as a fresh graduate? what’s next?

I feel well! I already did a few internships, one at Etudes Studio and another at Balenciaga. Today I’m an intern at Henrik Vibskov Studio in Copenhagen. Next? Probably a new personal project focusing more on accessories and installations.

 

*Ca sa va faceti o idee despre inspiratia si procesul complex de documentare din spatele acestei colectii, am atasat si cateva imagini din sketchbook-ul designerului.

vanessa research

Photo Credits: Julien Chavaillaz and Philippe Fragnière

 

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