Iris van Herpen
Tendinta constructivista persista serios in peisajul modei contemporane, si este sinonima cu o viziune specifica asupra viitorului vestimentatiei. Putem intalni astfel de costume chiar si in cadrul autohton, mai ales in randurile studentilor de la facultatile de moda, asa cum s-a putut vedea pe viu la recenta Cluj Fashion Week 2010. E vorba despre un imaginar vestimentar care s-a dezvoltat treptat pe filiera Thierry Mugler- Gareth Pugh, si ale carui resurse nu sunt nici pe departe complet epuizate. Vesmantul este concomitent lucrat ca suprafata- textura, volum si schelet, facand loc unui corp cu afinitati intergalactice.
Ma intreb daca acest lucru se suprapune intr-adevar unui viziuni credibile asupra costumelor viitoare, sau rezoneaza doar cu fanteziile unei epoci dominate de tehnologiile avansate, de corpuri imputernicite si de instalatiile vii de tipul Lady Gaga. Personal, consider ca un vesmant al viitorului ar trebui sa fie mult mai putin „constructivist”, si mai mult „asumat” pe post de o a doua piele. Dar moda este un etern spectacol, si ce poate fi mai spectaculos decat aceste exercitii volumetrice care transforma siluete si sustin un trup protezat si extrapolat?
Materia vestimentara a modei este permisiva, iar exercitiile „textile” de tipul Iris van Herpen sunt de luat in considerare. Pentru ca designeri ca Iris van Herpen dezvolta aceeasi tematica, dar o fac intr-o maniera personala, la modul profesionist, ireprosabil.
Iris van Herpen work
Van Herpen este un designer olandez, absolvent de ArtEZ Art Academy, un designer care a lucrat cu Viktor&Rolf si Alexander McQueen. Spre deosebire de alti designeri futuristo- constructivisti, Iris van Herpen este vizibil pasionata de corp si de miscare, iar volumetrile ei sunt intotdeauna flexibile, lucrate pentru a potenta trupul mai mult decat a- l pun in forma. Si acesta este unul din atuu-rile ei, dincolo de talent si aptitudinile deosebite care o fac usor de remarcat.
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