Meadham Kirchhoff S/S 2013
Probabil ca celor mai multi dintre voi numele de Meadham Kirchhoff va suna cunoscut. Si probabil ca cei mai multi nu ati aprofundat ideea, cum n-am facut-o nici eu pana ce nu am dat peste imaginile din colectia lor masculina de Primavara/ Vara 2013.
Meadham Kirchhoff este o echipa compusa din Edward Meadham si Benjamin Kirchhoff, doi designeri care au absolvit la Central Saint Martins in 2002, dupa care au pus bazele unui brand care mi se pare foarte promitator. Liniile vestimentare masculine si feminine propuse de ei s-au remarcat deja prin repertoriul dezinhibat: multa culoare, ironie, umor, si o tehnica de lucru care ii distanteaza de alura industriala a modei.
Dupa parerea mea, in moda masculina coabiteaza in acest momentul doua trenduri majore. Unul merge pe sobrietatea intelectualizata a minimalismului de calitate (Dior Homme, Raf Simons), cealalta incurajeaza latura relaxata, senzuala, mi-se-rup-ista a barbatului contemporan (Bernhard Willhelm, Westwood). Cert este ca Meadham Kirhhoff, care s-a lansat intai ca o linie de vestimentatie masculina (initial se numea Benjamin Kirchhoff), nu are de-a face cu minimalismul.
Prezentarea colectiei lor masculine de Primavara/Vara 2013 impresioneaza prin atmosfera, cromatica, sensibilitate, originalitate. Modelele sunt prezentate in decorul luxuriant al unui apartamant monumental in care mobilierul shabby chic coabiteaza cu florile si gunoiul, materialele delicate cu denimul si accentele grunge, imprimeurile florale cu piese de sportwear. Stylingul mixeaza un look care aminteste vag de Kurt Cobain si imprumuta cateva influente orientale ( sari, esarfe, bijuterii) pentru a raspunde cu precizie gustului noii generatii teen-age.
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